Best way to cap cast iron soil pipe | Boilers | Plumbers Forums
  • Welcome to PlumbersTalk.net

    Welcome to Plumbers' Talk | The new domain for UKPF / Plumbers Forums. Login with your existing details they should all work fine. Please checkout the PT Updates Forum

Welcome to the forum. Although you can post in any forum, the USA forum is here in case of local regs or laws

American Visitor?

Hey friend, we're detecting that you're an American visitor and want to thank you for coming to PlumbersTalk.net - Here is a link to the American Plumbing Forum. Though if you post in any other forum from your computer / phone it'll be marked with a little american flag so that other users can help from your neck of the woods. We hope this helps. And thanks once again.

Discuss Best way to cap cast iron soil pipe in the Boilers area at Plumbers Forums

Status
Not open for further replies.

mfgs

Plumbers Arms member
Plumber
Gas Engineer
Messages
3,460
I have got to remove a toilet and cap off the cast iron waste. It is half buried on a concrete floor so not easy to cut, how do you normally go about capping or plugging these. All I can think of using would be a 4 inch bung like used to testing?
 
Do you need to use the drain again ? if not bung some newspaper down and seal with sand/cement.
 
Do you need to use the drain again ? if not bung some newspaper down and seal with sand/cement.

It is in a branch off of the main stack so cant risk trying that, its just the way its half buried in the concrete floor tight to a wall which makes it a real pig.

Rob, that's not a bad idea. They are wanting to build some cupboards in place of where the toilet was so may be a bit bulky. Trying to keep it as tight as possible.
 
Good god just got out of the way of em stampeded horses, there must be Indians around these parts !!!!

If there is any chance of the stack blocking & the removed connection being put under pressure I would want to be using something that is going to stay in place & remain water tight.

Either a 100mm Timesaver or Ensign coupling (GT01) with a Blank end (GT70) cap, is the proper way to do it, IMHO.

At a push I am with Kozak above, they do a proper internal plug but you only need about 25mm of plan pipe showing to get the coupling on the outside.

[DLMURL]http://www.saint-gobain-pam.co.uk/assets/docs/sdr/Timesaver_Manual_2012.pdf[/DLMURL]
 
Last edited by a moderator:
If you can't get something on the outside of the pipe a multikwik pan connector with a 110mm PVC plug in the end that usually goes over the pan spigot may be shorter and will allow rodding access, if you can get something over the pipe then a timesaver bolted coupling with the PVC plug
 
I would go with 4inch bung as used on drain tests as you suggested pushed in as far as practical and faced up with sand & cement
 
Just don't say I did not warn you!!!, if the drain blocks & the stack fills with water the drain test plugs (bung) or drain connectors will not take the pressure & are likely to come out causing a flood.

If your name is on the work there will be a claim against you & insurance are un-likely to cover damages as inappropriate fitting have been used.

Ask yourself, is it worth the risk & they are going to be paying for the material & labour costs aren't they???
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Similar plumbing topics

B
I wouldn't bother even trying. Water jetters...
Replies
1
Views
455
https://www.monsterplumb.co.uk/floplast-110mm-x...
Replies
2
Views
598
Thanks Shaun and Last Plumber. I checked the...
Replies
3
Views
451
10 o’clock / 45 degrees would be better than...
Replies
3
Views
609
Use ss 304 forged fittings...(connector)
Replies
2
Views
653
Back
Top