Cannot get boiler pressure back to normal :(

[Wilsybaby03]

Hi, I recently installed a new bath, towel radiator and moved some water pipes etc. I fully drained the system by releasing the valve on the downstairs radiator etc. When I refilled the system the pressure shot up to 3 bars. I tried to bleed the rads but there was no air, only instant water. I have tried re draining the system and removing water from rads etc, however as soon as I turn the water mains back on the pressure shoots up to 3 bars and the system instantly fills up. The hot water works but the heating doesn't. Just to confirm - bleeding the rads & removing water doesn't help, it just increases again on its own. PLEASE HELP

 

[lame plumber]

try turning off both or one tap at the filling loop, when the pressure gets to 1 bar.

 

[jase158]

either
1, you connected the cold to the central heating
2, you have left a valve shut somewhere
3, as above your filling loop is faulty

try draining slowly through valve, with someone else by boiler telling you when it gets to 1. leave at 1 and try turning on

However this could be dodgy, I would recommend getting a plumber in

 

[stevetheplumber]

sounds like the heated tail rail will rust away pretty soon

 

[kay-jay]

i bet he's crossed pipes....

 

[snowhead]

however as soon as I turn the water mains back on the pressure shoots up to 3 bars and the system instantly fills up.

I'll agree with post #2.
Too much water in the system.

 

[Wilsybaby03]

try turning off both or one tap at the filling loop, when the pressure gets to 1 bar.

Thanks for the reply! I have not fixed a cold mains to the CHS, the filling loop is closed but it still fills up automatically when I turn the cold mains back on (This is what I don't undertand)! I pressume that the filling loop is ceased open. Is this possible? Would'nt the pressure be higher than 3 bars if it was ceased open?

I have tried draining the system but it fills up very quickly as the filling loop will not control water entering the CHS???? To me, the filling loop is not functioning correctly. My dad refilled the system too quickly first time round, could this have damaged it?

Thanks

 

[Wilsybaby03]

i bet he's crossed pipes....

All pipes are merely replacing old ones. No crossed over pipes.

 

[Wilsybaby03]

try turning off both or one tap at the filling loop, when the pressure gets to 1 bar.

I think the problem is that the taps on the filling loop will not close. Can these things cease open? My dad filled the system far too quick the first time around. Could this have caused them to stay open?

 

[snowhead]

3 bar is either your incoming mains pressure or it's blowing the PRV off on the boiler which is fixed 3 bar.

Take the filling hose off and check if the valve is passing

 

[kay-jay]

Possibly the filling loop.
No the pressure would stay at 3 bar as that is when the safety valve opens and discharges

 

[kris]

Disconnect the braided hose on the filling loop this will tell you if it's open. It's the only explanation possible unless you've crossed the pipes. You may have to put on a new isolation valve on the filling loop and then try again.
Please don't switch your boiler on when it's over pressurised or try not let it get to 3 bar as sometimes the pressure relief valve will not seat closed properly and can cause a drip in the future . Also make sure you fully vent system.

 

[kris]

Forgot to say welcome to the forum wilsybaby.

 

[Wilsybaby03]

Forgot to say welcome to the forum wilsybaby.

Thanks Kris, I personally think its the filling loop. I am going to add a new isolation valve to the existing filling loop because the filling loop has a T compression valve on and it seems pointless taking that off. Any recommendation for a isolation valve?

I couldn't have crossed pipes because all I did was change a radiator and put a new bath and sink in to existing pipes.

Where on/what end of the filling loop should I put the isolation valve? What type of valve should I put on?

Appreciate the help, as it worry me!

 

[lame plumber]

mate, call in a plumber who knows whats what, chances are your going to beegar your boiler and what you think your saving through diy will cost you a small fortune in boiler repairs. ps its seize/seized valve, thought you were saying it had ceased to function initially

 

[Wilsybaby03]

mate, call in a plumber who knows whats what, chances are your going to beegar your boiler and what you think your saving through diy will cost you a small fortune in boiler repairs. ps its seize/seized valve, thought you were saying it had ceased to function initially

Problem resolved! The plastic tap lever was threaded on the filling loop so that when I tried to turn it closed, it wasn't working. New isolation valve fitted at a cost of £2. That's why I didn't call a plumber. Appreciate all your help people

 

[kay-jay]

Problem resolved! The plastic tap lever was threaded on the filling loop so that when I tried to turn it closed, it wasn't working. New isolation valve fitted at a cost of £2. That's why I didn't call a plumber. Appreciate all your help people

Well done.
Thanks for letting us know the outcome.
[emoji3]