fortic tank cold header water gets hot

[Rogerp]

I have a fortic tank where the over flow is dripping.
When I looked in the top part which I expected to be cold it was full of hot water and the ball cock had started dripping and over flowing.

Could the problem be a faulty thermostat? and could the hot water have caused the ball cock to fail.

Is it easy to change both? I am an electritian so the power bit is not a problem, just not come across this bioler before.

I plan to change the thermostate, drain the tank and change the ball cock.
Thanks for any help you can give.
Cheers
Roger

 

[Puddle]

Well the thermostat you will know how to replace

The ball valve is not hard,main thing is ,if you have not done something before is take your time,buy and replace complete ball valve and get new float as well and washer to go in connecting joint,isolate water supply replace valve,turn water on slowly,just let dripple through at first to check no leaks then increase slowly
You do not have to drain tank to replace ball valve,just isolate supply to ball valve

 

[Bernie2]

Agree with Puddle,

Sometimes these combination cylinders do get hot in the feed tank. It may be best to fit a brass ball valve and copper float or at least replace like for like.

Just a tip: I find if you can get the 1/2 red compound washers for tap connectors, its a lot easier than trying to make a PTFE grommet when reconnecting ball valve onto fitting.

 

[Rogerp]

Bernie2 and Puddle,
Thanks for your help, makes me feel a little more confident in attacking the plumbing bit. I was very concerned as had seen some threads talking about a split coil as one problem which involves much more plumbing and potential drips.

I will fit a brass ball valve and copper float and a new thermostate and see how it goes.
Cheers
Roger

 

[stevetheplumber]

Bernie2 and Puddle,
Thanks for your help, makes me feel a little more confident in attacking the plumbing bit. I was very concerned as had seen some threads talking about a split coil as one problem which involves much more plumbing and potential drips.

I will fit a brass ball valve and copper float and a new thermostate and see how it goes.
Cheers
Roger

i wouldnt bother with a copper float the plastic ones seem to cope with quite high temps without problems most of us boil our water in a plastic kettle these days
water in these tanks is often moderatly warm just by the heat from the cylinder below below
if the stat has failed it would have boiled the water or not heated at all depending which way it failed
id just change the ballvalve see hor it goes after that
if you have acces to the ballvale its easiest to change just the front half of the ballvalvebyundoing the union inside the tank always use the new red washer from the new valve

 

[REDSAW]

yes,
stops the tank freezing in winter steve.