warmflow boiler - primary heat exchanger of the appliance corroded

[Babybill]

I have a warmflow boiler and it is giving me headaches. It is less than 3 years old and I am now told that the primary heat exchanger has been corroded and is leaking - and the boiler cannot be fixed only replaced. I am told the corrosion has taken place because we have been topping it up with water - this isn't the case.

I don't know whether to believe warmflow that anew boiler is my only option?
Carol

 

[AWheating]

Oil boiler?

3 years for a hex to fail sounds very short even if the inhibitor level in the system had been very diluted unless it was installed very badly, Hopefully somebody on the forum will have experience with these boilers.

What's the model and what's your location?

Welcome to the forum.

 

[Babybill]

I have a warmflow boiler and it is giving me headaches. It is less than 3 years old and I am now told that the primary heat exchanger has been corroded and is leaking - and the boiler cannot be fixed only replaced. I am told the corrosion has taken place because we have been topping it up with water - this isn't the case.

I don't know whether to believe warmflow that anew boiler is my only option?
Carol

I am located in Belfast Northern Ireland and he boiler is warmflow Green 90 Kabin

 

[Killy Bing]

You can replace the water jacket but thats basically a new boiler.


do you have a sealed system or an open vented system?

 

[Babybill]

the boiler is a warmflow 90 Kabin and it is exterior.

 

[Ray Stafford]

there are two parts to the question.

1) Once the primary heat exchanger has gone, they are right - for the cost of replacing it, it is usually better to replace the whole boiler.

2) Why did it fail in so short a time? The most likely reason that I can think of is that its on an open vented system (ie fed by a header tank) and the system has a leak somewhere out of sight. This would mean that freshly oxygenated, un-inhibited water was being introduced on a continuous basis, possibly without your knowledge. Or a fault in the original heat exchanger, but you would need to get the heat-ex out and cut it up to prove it either way.

 

[Ermintrude]

I would think that the jacket had manufacturing faults or was damaged. For it to rot out so fast.

 

[Killy Bing]

I would think that the jacket had manufacturing faults or was damaged. For it to rot out so fast.

You'd be suRprised

1 to 2 years if condense has leaked onto the jacket

2 to 3 if theres a substantial leak on an open vented system.

 

[SimonG]

If its a combi it will have gone on a weld at the bottom right hand corner.

If it was fitted and registered then the hex has a 5 year warranty. Im doing one under warranty tomorrow afternoon. Its two months short of 5 years old. Warmflow have sent the full boiler less the burner.

 

[lame plumber]

would have thought it was still under warranty and a replacement hex/boiler due

 

[Killy Bing]

If its a combi it will have gone on a weld at the bottom right hand corner.

If it was fitted and registered then the hex has a 5 year warranty. Im doing one under warranty tomorrow afternoon. Its two months short of 5 years old. Warmflow have sent the full boiler less the burner.

Now that begs the question doesnt it

 

[Bronze_tap]

I have a warmflow boiler and it is giving me headaches. It is less than 3 years old and I am now told that the primary heat exchanger has been corroded and is leaking...

From what sh... (metal to put it politelly) that hetex is made?
Looks like it is alluminium or paper thin steel, othervice no way it should have failed so quickly.
The troulble with Aluminum is, that you need water in the CH system to be @ pH=7. It would take a tiny scratch on the internal protective surface for Al heatex abd water dosed with Fe/Cu only inhibitor @ pH>>7 to dissolve the Al away...

In any case test for leaks, best to use the commercial hyraulic testing kit (or racing bike pump) and pump it up to 6-8 bar (depending on the max rated preassure of rads you've got).

 

[Killy Bing]

From what sh... (metal to put it politelly) that hetex is made?
Looks like it is alluminium or paper thin steel, othervice no way it should have failed so quickly.
The troulble with Aluminum is, that you need water in the CH system to be @ pH=7. It would take a tiny scratch on the internal protective surface for Al heatex abd water dosed with Fe/Cu only inhibitor @ pH>>7 to dissolve the Al away...

In any case test for leaks, best to use the commercial hyraulic testing kit (or racing bike pump) and pump it up to 6-8 bar (depending on the max rated preassure of rads you've got).

Oil boiler.... *shakes head*

 

[Roger Welton]

Are you sure its the heat exchanger, if a combi there is a stupid pipe hidden down the back that has a tendency to leak, and give the impression that its the hex

 

[kimbo]

I have had a few boilers that have been condemned for the same reason by plumbers and on checking I have found the auto air vent was leaking and the water running down the insulation and forming a rusty puddle at the bottom of the boiler. A new air vent was thr only thing required. Get the engineer to dhow you where iy is leaking