If you havent creased the hose and only change is the hose and the tap, then does that indicate faulty tap, unless some crud dislodged somewhere. I'd take hose off tap (isolate first at the house main stop tap ) then fit a free standing drain valve to end of hose. Typically drain valves are 1/2inch bsp so if your baths are 3/4inch then you may need an adapter. Remember if measuring bsp its the inside dia of the male i.e. the tap. Go to good plumbers merchant if not sure. If not helpful find one that is (and remember we all have off days - well most of us).You can then do flow test into bucket. Alternative if you have a helper, you could point the disconnected hose into bucket while somebody else turns on the main stop tap (just half a turn). Dont do that if they cant clearly hear you shout "turn off !". What is the bend on your hose when fitted to tap ?
I'm assuming here your taps are UK BSP threaded connection ?
Here's an example of the test bits for 1/2inch BSP hose (The adapter if you need in my hand to convert to 3/4inch BSP):
e.g. Drain tap (from plumbers merchant or DIY):
Drain Cock Type B - 1/2" BSP Brass - 6922 | BES.co.uk
e.g. Adapter (The plastic one is ok for testing, not for any final installation) you can get this from DIY or garden centre, or ask plumbers merchant. Make sure there is sealing washer in the female end of the adapter:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Hozelock-26-5mm-Outdoor-Threaded-Connector/dp/B000TAW5WW
Important point. If your nice new taps have ceramic valves then always flush through your new plumbing before fitting the taps else crud can damage the ceramic inserts (from experience on my own bath taps). If you have been soldering then you need hot water flush for that. So test bits like the above are very handy to have, also for fault finding. Get some female stop ends at same time for future projects.
P.S. Post title might be better as "poor flow at hot bath tap (high pressure fed)"
(I'm also checking my understanding here)