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What can be done about this?

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Discuss What can be done about this? in the Plumbing Jobs | The Job-board area at Plumbers Forums

Geocel the works, or stixall are the two I use depending on availability.
Dow Corning 785 in the tongue groove joints.
I don’t use the internal corners, nice tight scribe and plane, then thin bead silicone .
All cut with handsaw and plane up to line.
 
Sticks like **** I use when I have to do the panels
 
Ben-gee said:
To deal with slopes wiggles etc in ceiling and walls. Draw a horizontal line and measure up and down from it, if ceiling bad I take a measurement every 50 mm across. Same with draw a vertical line and measure left and right.
DONT just get an overall height as you will be way off, especially if tray is slightly bowed ( aren’t they nearly all?) or , heaven forbid, the tray’s not quite level!
Click to expand...

If ceiling is bad you mearsure every 50mm, wow must be a cabinet maker....:D
 
Ben-gee said:
Method is this.

Fit tray/bath as normal and seal it to the wall.

Sit board on three 1 mm packers, leave these until adhesive dry, then remove and silicone up. Pump the 3mm gap full and finish with a smoothing tool ( I use the 8mm chamfer which gives approx 5 mm coverage).
The reason for three 1 mm packers and not a single 3 mm packer is so you don’t break a piece of the laminate face off when you remove them.
Slide out the middle one of the three, then press down and the others should come out easily- yes I learnt this the hard way , got away with superglue and custard never knew! But I could see I may not be lucky next time so developed the above method.

To deal with slopes wiggles etc in ceiling and walls. Draw a horizontal line and measure up and down from it, if ceiling bad I take a measurement every 50 mm across. Same with draw a vertical line and measure left and right.
DONT just get an overall height as you will be way off, especially if tray is slightly bowed ( aren’t they nearly all?) or , heaven forbid, the tray’s not quite level!
If you are in a hurry then leave the packers in, cut them flush with the board with sharp chisel and then just press them back a few mil so they’re hidden by silicone ( you shouldn’t have to do this and I would really advise against siliconing the same day as fixing the boards.)
Click to expand...

Platerer's need re=educating, straight edge's, derby's, get it flat man!!
 
It would be better to leave it slightly proud of the coving in my opion. I just did one I cad the ceiling In plastic from eurocell as Ben gee's recommendation add j trim to finish it if you just want to do the shower area stick up with silicone and staple the tounge before fixing another board . Cheers Kop

IMG_20190523_175535.jpg


IMG_20190523_175510.jpg


IMG_20190528_152748.jpg
 
Last edited:
king of pipes said:
It would be better to leave it slightly proud of the coving in my opion. I just did one I cad the ceiling In plastic from eurocell as Ben gee's recommendation add j trim to finish it if you just want to do the shower area stick up with silicone and staple the tounge before fixing another board . Cheers Kop

View attachment 39162

View attachment 39163

View attachment 39164
Click to expand...
Looks really tidy KOP, what is height of top edge of shower tray 120mm?
Cheers Jim
 
Sorry Jim have to disagree I like a chrome trim i use them on all my installs looks better and lasts longer in my opion , tray height dunno 100mm ish cant use that stupid plastic effort you get with a riser kit . All the best kop

Screenshot_20190302-194928_Photos.jpg


Screenshot_20180730-054739_Photos.jpg
 
looks fine ash
 
king of pipes said:
Splash panel cellular plastic £60 ish a panel (eureocell)
Multi panel marine ply £150 ish a panel (plumbcity)
Regards kop
Click to expand...

If using the more expensive ones does this still work out cheaper than regular tiling ?

I've read some of these are designed to look like tiles, only 3mm thick and can be stuck straight on top of old tiles. Anyone done that?
 
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