How to replace actuator pin valve (uponor)

J

Jonathan Pritchard

Messages

8

• Oct 30, 2019

• #1

I have an actuator pin which is leaking when closed, i have swapped the actuator itself but that has not resolved the problem. I have ordered a replacement actuator valve but I'm not sure what i need to do to replace,,, if i put a spanner on it straight away I'm guessing that water will go everywhere so guessing that i need to put the thermostatic valve to 0 ... and close shut off valve (top right with white cap)??? The valve is on the blue actuator on the nearest port to the pump.... grateful for any advice on how to replace.

thanks

Jono

 

Attachments

• 
  IMG_7078.JPG

  110.6 KB · Views: 78

Gasmk1

Esteemed

Gas Engineer

Messages

2,151

• Oct 31, 2019

• #2

Yes to both you will also need to drop the pressure on underfloor to 0 make sure thmostat does actually shut off. Is there no other valves to shut off the underfloor on the flow or return. You will need to change it quick as you don't want to get air in

 

J

Jonathan Pritchard

Messages

8

• Oct 31, 2019

• #3

Ok, thanks. I have no pressure bar on my underfloor manifold, the only pressure gauge I have is on the boiler itself.

I don’t need to drain or fill water into the actual zone for this task no ? Just remove the copper valve and replace quickly

 

Dave Marques

Messages

20

• Oct 31, 2019

• #4

Much as Gasmk1 says,
To replace a manifold pin the system will not require a drain down. Isolate the primary flow and return either using isolation valves or the lockshield valve and TMV on the manifold. Make sure the pump is not running and there is no call for heat and open the drain to release a little bit of pressure (not much water will be released, if there is a fair amount and it keeps coming the manifold has not isolated properly) once this has been done you can proceed and remove the manifold pin. Once the part has been replaced make sure the drain has been closed and then open the primary flow and return back up.

 

J

Jonathan Pritchard

Messages

8

• Oct 31, 2019

• #5

Brilliant, thank you both very much for the advice

 

J

Jonathan Pritchard

Messages

8

• Nov 12, 2019

• #6

I’ve only just received the replacement part. Which way does the actuator turn to remove clockwise or anti-clockwise ??

 

M

MarkDIY

Messages

6

• Feb 21, 2020

• #7

Jonathan Pritchard said:

I’ve only just received the replacement part. Which way does the actuator turn to remove clockwise or anti-clockwise ??

Click to expand...

I've got the same issue. Any further tips?

 

Gasmk1

Esteemed

Gas Engineer

Messages

2,151

• Feb 21, 2020

• #8

The nut is standard we very rarely see left hand threads in this country other than LPG probably some others but not often in plumbing

 

M

MarkDIY

Messages

6

• Feb 21, 2020

• #9

Thanks. Would it be 3/4 inch or 19mm spanner required? (I don’t want to risk rounding the corners)

 

M

MarkDIY

Messages

6

• Feb 25, 2020

• #10

Maintenance Tips:

• Pins on top of valve sometimes stick especially after the summer if UFH not being used. Fix is to remove the blue actuator and press down on pin manually to free up. The red flow meter should change accordingly.
• For a leaking pin, replace the pin valve using a 19mm hex socket spanner to avoid rounding the nut corners. Part no. 1002372. I sourced from Underfloorstore.
• I did have one stuck red flow value which was fixed by screwing up and down a couple of times.

Hopefully this will help someone!

 

Gasmk1

Esteemed

Gas Engineer

Messages

2,151

• Feb 25, 2020

• #11

dont know but if unsure use adjustable

 

Dave Marques

Messages

20

• Feb 26, 2020

• #12

Use a 19mm Hex socket. Those valves are glued in during manufacture, a spanner is very likely just to round them!

 

J

joeirish

Messages

15

• Mar 30, 2020

• #13

I also have to do the same on my system but there are no isolating valves. Mine is an IVAR manifold with a comb t mixing unit. I can't get a clear photo of the unit because it is behind some pipes but I've attached a drawing from the instruction sheet. Number 2 are the pump isolation valves, 5 is labelled isolation valve, 8-8a are fill and drain valves and 1 is TMV. So really trying to find out how I isolate the manifold. Would I also need to depressurise the system. My plumber is out of the country and can't get back due the the virus. Thanks

 

Attachments

• combit.pdf

  123.2 KB · Views: 39

Last edited: Mar 30, 2020

B

Brambles

Esteemed

Messages

873

• Apr 2, 2020

• #14

Close valve 5 at the bottom. Remove the mixing valve head and close the top valve 1a. Valve 1a may not make a completely water tight seal downstream.

For the future you should have proper full bore isolating valves fitted.