Welcome to the forum. Although you can post in any forum, the USA forum is here in case of local regs or laws
Discuss Real world testing example of Condensing Boiler in older home in the Boilers area at Plumbers Forums
A very experienced "oil" man thinks that it probably is a feature to help with the sooting that was a feature of the original enviromax/silver series of boilers and the post purge with the elco burner is more of a clean out of the combustion chamber after each cycle run. Also said the the air intake damper was a feature of the Riello 40 burner and Firebird no longer use the damper.
Apologies for having skipped part of this thread, and if it turns out I'm repeating what others have said:
1. Possibly the boiler has a a maximum temperature drop and, if you throttle the flow to get a higher differential, it responds by cycling to try to reduce the differential down to below its maximum
2. Thinking about condensing. If the flow temperature is high and the return is below condensing, it makes sense that condensation will only form on that part of the heat exchanger that is coolest. So, if condensing starts below 2°M (M = a made-up temperature scale), say, and stops at 4°M, a boiler running at 4/2 will always condense well, whereas a boiler running at 6/2 will only give 2/3rds of the condensing capacity because 1/3 of the heat exchanger is likely to be above the dewpoint which is 4°M. So there is likely to be more to it than just the boiler return temperature. Not my original idea, but heard it somewhere and it makes sense (although probably a slight simplification of the actual physics at work).
I'll put the bottle back on tomorrow and see for sure. I think it looked like there were a few drops tonight but will need the bottle to test for sure. Very tempted to downsize the nozzle too sooner than later. 26kw is probably oversized for my house especially the upstairs zone which gets the most use.Any condense tho ?
Simple rad Calc will tell you all you need to know
Using Danfoss Nozzle Calc spreadsheet I got the following values based on specific Firebird settings:A 0.6 USGPM SHOULD GIVE ~ 21kw the 0.5 is probably only 16/17 kw
I have had the digital BEM connected for a few days and it ain't no good. It keeps the boiler temps down all the time.
In my opinion, if you have a reasonably modern and correctly commissioned boiler there is little point in adding a third-party 'magic box' controller to a domestic system. Although they might have achieved the claimed savings years ago when boilers were controlled by a single thermostat, these days domestic boilers are already monitoring and controlling based a range of operating variables including flow and return temperature and have been optimised by the manufacturer. If there were "30% energy savings" to be made Worcester, Vaillant, et al. would have already modified their control strategy accordingly.
So what is this BEM controller doing exactly? An oil burner technician by trade but not familiar with the unit you mention in all honesty.
Thanks for the description. You’re clearly quite well informed as a homeowner 👍. Another thing it’s good for is as you mentioned it governs the stop/start cycling. Burners are happy running for long periods of time and ideally as cool as possible. What is not good for them is this stop start cycling. It puts a lot of wear and tear on burner components will need replacing more frequently.