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I'm working on a Quooker Flex tap with an unreliable tap-and-twist steam control. I think its the little PCB in the tap head. I've got a replacement but I'm unsure of the process for removing and replacing the PCB. It is sandwiched between the brass core of the tap and the stainless case. It looks like the core will need to be removed to gain access to the PCB. Does anyone know if this is the case and if so how to remove the core. Is it threaded or pressed in? Are special tools required? I can post images if required.

Any advice appreciated.
 
Yes, they were happy to supply the part but said it was one repair that they didn't have written instructions for. Maybe its considered too tricky for an owner repair? I have many years engineering experience so feel confident, it's just the sequence of disassembly I want to get right.
 
Yes, they were happy to supply the part but said it was one repair that they didn't have written instructions for. Maybe its considered too tricky for an owner repair? I have many years engineering experience so feel confident, it's just the sequence of disassembly I want to get right.
Did you ever work out how to dismantle the top part of the tap?
 
Yes, they were happy to supply the part but said it was one repair that they didn't have written instructions for. Maybe its considered too tricky for an owner repair? I have many years engineering experience so feel confident, it's just the sequence of disassembly I want to get right.
Hi
Did you ever work out how to remove the tap and twist ring and access the PCB?
 
Did either of you solve this? I have the same issue
Hi
I was able to work out how to remove the "tap and twist" ring (it unscrews the opposite way to normal screw thread).

I'm still puzzled as to how to separate the spout and the valve.

The PCB, of course, is sandwiched in between.

Perhaps our engineer friend, Franklin J Bean, managed to solve the problem?
 
I have the Fusion tap, and the ring doesnt seem to unscrew, at least not with hand grip
Mine is fusion square.

I held the chrome valve cover in a vice and unscrewed the ring with a wrench. I took great care, using cloths to make sure I didn't damage the chrome. Gentle pressure to begin with.

The valve is easy to remove. Undo the nuts at the bottom. Make sure you release the cable from it's groove first!

Separating the top part of the brass valve and the spout remains a mystery to me. There doesn't appear to be a grub screw or anything like that. I suspect it is a push fit and designed so that it can't easily be separated. Understandable when you are dealing with boiling water!

If you can find a way to do that I'd be grateful if you could share the solution.

Good luck!
 
Mine is fusion square.

I held the chrome valve cover in a vice and unscrewed the ring with a wrench. I took great care, using cloths to make sure I didn't damage the chrome. Gentle pressure to begin with.

The valve is easy to remove. Undo the nuts at the bottom. Make sure you release the cable from it's groove first!

Separating the top part of the brass valve and the spout remains a mystery to me. There doesn't appear to be a grub screw or anything like that. I suspect it is a push fit and designed so that it can't easily be separated. Understandable when you are dealing with boiling water!

If you can find a way to do that I'd be grateful if you could share the solution.

Good luck!

I have a Fusion flex with a push-turn knob that was hard to push due to 5 years of goo building up around the moving parts.

To lift the knob off, there is a small hole on the back side just below the push-turn knob. Inside there is a little plastic catch lever that can be pushed with a small rod like a flat head screw driver.
I held pressure on the lever while lifting and twisting the knob.
The twisting resulted in breaking a tiny piece of plastic holding one of two metal pins and in hindsight I think I should just have lifted the knob without twisting.
Anyway, I was able to clean the moving parts with a damp cloth and assemble the tap again, ignoring the broken pin-holder (as there was still an intact pin in place). The knob glides easily and still works. Phew!

PS I never saw the PCB or LED inside it...
 
I have a Fusion flex with a push-turn knob that was hard to push due to 5 years of goo building up around the moving parts.

To lift the knob off, there is a small hole on the back side just below the push-turn knob. Inside there is a little plastic catch lever that can be pushed with a small rod like a flat head screw driver.
I held pressure on the lever while lifting and twisting the knob.
The twisting resulted in breaking a tiny piece of plastic holding one of two metal pins and in hindsight I think I should just have lifted the knob without twisting.
Anyway, I was able to clean the moving parts with a damp cloth and assemble the tap again, ignoring the broken pin-holder (as there was still an intact pin in place). The knob glides easily and still works. Phew!

PS I never saw the PCB or LED inside it...
Thanks for the info'

I think Flex and Fusion must be designed differently in that area.

My problem remains - how to removed the electronic ring. It is sandwiched between the top of the valve body and the base of the spout.

No obvious way to remove the spout.
 
Thanks for the info'

I think Flex and Fusion must be designed differently in that area.

My problem remains - how to removed the electronic ring. It is sandwiched between the top of the valve body and the base of the spout.

No obvious way to remove the spout.
To Franklin J Bean and Trullock
I finally discovered how to remove the light ring.
1 Remove the screws and remove the valve body (be careful to unhook the wires first)
2 Remove the boiling water hose by gently tapping out the circular holding ring with a nail punch or similar
3 Remove the tap nozzle and gently prise out the 4 pronged white spacer
4 remove the spacer from the white plastic hose
5 push the plastic hose into the tap and hook it out from the valve end
6 rebuild the valve and hold the brass body in a vice
7 gently pull the spout off. It is held in place only by rubber sealing rings
8 Prise off the black plastic ring
9 Remove the valve body
10 You can now prise off the light ring.

The problem I now have is that Quooker will not supply me with a new light ring!

Franklin - do you still have the light ring? - if you no longer have a need to fit it, can you supply it to me?

Cheers

Alan J
 
Mine is fusion square.

I held the chrome valve cover in a vice and unscrewed the ring with a wrench. I took great care, using cloths to make sure I didn't damage the chrome. Gentle pressure to begin with.

Did you push down on it first or just very slowly unscrew it clockwise from its off position?

Mine is working intermittently, the tap and turn knob feels a bit wobbly but I think the magnet in the knob is possibly corroded as if I put a stronger one on top of works perfectly.

Hoping I can fix it whilst leaving the tap in place and without removing the spout.

Many thanks.
 
Did you push down on it first or just very slowly unscrew it clockwise from its off position?

Mine is working intermittently, the tap and turn knob feels a bit wobbly but I think the magnet in the knob is possibly corroded as if I put a stronger one on top of works perfectly.

Hoping I can fix it whilst leaving the tap in place and without removing the spout.

Many thanks.
Hi Merlous

I just held the tap body in place and unscrewed clockwise with a wrench.
The chrome ring is decorative. It covers a brass ring which does the on/off function. No need to remove the spout to achieve this.
 
Hi Merlous

I just held the tap body in place and unscrewed clockwise with a wrench.
The chrome ring is decorative. It covers a brass ring which does the on/off function. No need to remove the spout to achieve this.
Hi Alan

Thanks. Might give it a try later. Found a Dutch video where the person said it prises off, but that could be how you get too the brass ring where the magnet is located.
 
Hi Alan

Thanks. Might give it a try later. Found a Dutch video where the person said it prises off, but that could be how you get too the brass ring where the magnet is located.

Mine is definitely threaded.
The brass ring is held in place by 2 plastic pins
Just tried and mine initially loosened but then just turns. Goes from stiff to loose depending where it is on the turn... maybe the spout has to come off after all? Will have another go later.
 
Just tried and mine initially loosened but then just turns. Goes from stiff to loose depending where it is on the turn... maybe the spout has to come off after all? Will have another go later.
I don't think taking the spout off will help you much. Quite an involved task (see earlier post). You may have snapped the plastic pins which hold the brass ring in place? In which case both rings may be turning together rather than separating? Make sure the connecting wires are loose from the valve body before trying to lift the brass ring away - you may snap one of the wires.
 
Sorry for the delay, have had a bit of a few days. I think you're right about the plastic pins and might be why mine doesn't work all the time if it's moved slightly.
I have made a temporary fix as I haven't got the time to strip it all down, it works every time now!

Temp fix was to attach a 5mm X 1.5mm round magnet to the knurled knob. It magnetises itself to the existing magnet in the ring and gives it the right amount of magnetism to operate the tap.
PXL_20231009_181422696.jpg
 
Sorry for the delay, have had a bit of a few days. I think you're right about the plastic pins and might be why mine doesn't work all the time if it's moved slightly.
I have made a temporary fix as I haven't got the time to strip it all down, it works every time now!

Temp fix was to attach a 5mm X 1.5mm round magnet to the knurled knob. It magnetises itself to the existing magnet in the ring and gives it the right amount of magnetism to operate the tap.View attachment 85244
The “temporary fix” with a magnet works! Thanks very much.
 

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