Atkinson tank top oil feed | Oil and Solid Fuel Forum | Plumbers Forums

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Any reason why you couldn’t use a standard low discharge tank ?
 
Yes particularly hot/cold area that causes lots of condensation in the tank, as its a single skin plastic tank it does not have a rear drain point so frequent pumping out and the problem of disposal, the top feed would delay the inevitable middle of winter pump out, Atkinson top feed about £100.00, disposal of old tank and installation of a new tank conforming to the current draconian Regulations about £6000.00.
 
Bumping this up, if anyone has experience of top feed oil tanks, should the oil line be insulated up the side of the tank, if so how do you attach the insulation to a plastic tank? Pipe being used is green PVC covered, would this be sufficient?
 
There not the best top feeds don’t let them go past 1/2 empty else they start giving problems

Insulation wise no need as you won’t do much eg if it’s that cold the insulation won’t do much also water ingress will nill the effect of the insulation
 
@ShaunCorbs Thanks for the response, what sort of problems do they give if the the tank goes past half empty? Is it lack of feed due to loss of pressure from the pump? Or some other problem I have not accounted for?

Tank and pipe are well protected from rain, so I assume any insulation may be worthwhile?
 
@ShaunCorbs Thanks for the response, what sort of problems do they give if the the tank goes past half empty? Is it lack of feed due to loss of pressure from the pump? Or some other problem I have not accounted for?

Tank and pipe are well protected from rain, so I assume any insulation may be worthwhile?

Lack of feed and there not the best in terms of reliability seen a few sunk to the bottom

You could but it’s been fine upto now not gelled up ?
 
Start having issues around the 3 years mark

The beast from the east had a few that turned into syrup like consistency
 
I got this from Atkinson's, they are having problems posting themselves:

Hi all, we spotted threads on this forum, tried to reply but the system took the long post as spam so thought I would register to answer any queries.

Top off take systems are a bit more complex than standard gravity feed and often certain service aspects are overlooked causing issues down the line....which are then often attributed to the valves themselves.

To my knowledge I don't believe we have actually had a faulty Tanktop valve in itself(10+ years!), the issues are the serviceable parts around them. As standard unless otherwise specified the Atkinson Tanktop units are supplied with 1.7m of suction pipe which we say accommodates for a main tank height of 1.5m - there should always be around 20cm excess of pipe which ensures a loop is created at the bottom and ensures the end of the pipe is submersed in fuel. We also set the anti siphon valve to 150mb as standard which equates to 1.6-1.7m of drop in the line being protected from siphoning. If the main fuel tank is deeper than this then a longer suction hose is required. If the total drop in the line is more than 1.7m then the unit should be calibrated by us upon ordering(the top module can also be sent back for calibration).

The fact they are pulling from the top of the tank and have an anti siphon valve is why usually they will be fitted with the need for a Tigerloop for burners or oil lifters for Aga(wick) type appliances. The resistance of the anti siphon valve is the equivalent of having a lift in the line rather than having a gravity feed, so the burner pumps need to be opened into a 2 pipe system which allows the pumps to have a greater suction. Tigerloops allow for a 2 pipe system to be created without returning to the tank + allow the air(from the oil being in a state of negative pressure) to aspirate from the return loop. Wick fed appliances need gravity feed so an oil lifter would be necessary.

One of the main service issues overlooked will be the floating suction pipe, this is made out of rubber and suspended in the tank so that it can draw oil from the top of the fluid. Being rubber and fitted outside suspended in kerosene this pipe will need to be checked and nipped up at the top connection to the Tanktop from time to time - we recommend annually upon boiler service along with checking of the filter in the Tanktop. A leaking joint will allow air to leak in without leaking oil out as the line will be under negative pressure. Also these are usually fitted around the same area as the fill point and inspection cap, its quite common for delivery drivers to just put their nozzle into the inspection cap and fill up at various angles which at up to 4-500lpm and 8 bar pressure will tie into the need to check and tighten the suction pipe. Since January 2020 the rubber pipe is a very premium automotive quality hose which I am unware of any hardening as yet. Older hoses will probably harden after a couple of years an need replacing, if they harden then you can either experience not being able to seal at the top connection or in extreme cases the rubber hose staying up as a hard loop and the oil level dropping below it.

On the outlet usually we supply the valves with a 10mm push fit. Some tank manufacturer specific kits come with a flexi pipe and another push fit for hard pipe connection outside of the tank. When using a push fit with flexi pipe it is important to have ample slack at the push fit connections as the elasticity of the pipe against the internal sealing o'ring on the push fit will cause it to give way if it is taught. If using a hard pipe connection directly into the push fit it is important to have it very straight and free from burrs, pull back the collar insert pipe then release - simply pushing in hard pipe at potential angles could catch the o'ring and cause damage. The option is there to remove the push fit and install a 1/4" - 10mm stud for hard pipe connection.

Finally in the case of tanks with support struts moving across the mid section or maybe very thin shapes - the suction pipe has the potential to get caught. We manufacture a version suitable for rigid suction pipe connection which is supplied with a 10mm compression fitting for the suction pipe. The engineer can then use 10mm copper pipe to make their own suction to the bottom of the tank - recommend bending a hook at the bottom to avoid pulling from the very base of the tank where sediment and water will gather. Obviously in this case it draws from the bottom of the tank but the point it draws from can be tailored somewhat, the main benefit of the Atkinson Tanktop at this point would be the anti siphon valve over a gravity feed tank.

If any further advice is needed or general questions let me know,

Matt - Senior Technical Manager

Atkinson Equipment Ltd

Best regards
Matt Lurc
Senior Technical Sales Manager
 
Last edited:
That can't have anything to do with the Atkinson tank top feed, but lack of insulation to the pipe?

No as it even gelled up underground just saying no point putting insulation on
It etc
 
I got this from Atkinson's, they are having problems posting themselves:

Hi all, we spotted threads on this forum, tried to reply but the system took the long post as spam so thought I would register to answer any queries.

Top off take systems are a bit more complex than standard gravity feed and often certain service aspects are overlooked causing issues down the line....which are then often attributed to the valves themselves.

To my knowledge I don't believe we have actually had a faulty Tanktop valve in itself(10+ years!), the issues are the serviceable parts around them. As standard unless otherwise specified the Atkinson Tanktop units are supplied with 1.7m of suction pipe which we say accommodates for a main tank height of 1.5m - there should always be around 20cm excess of pipe which ensures a loop is created at the bottom and ensures the end of the pipe is submersed in fuel. We also set the anti siphon valve to 150mb as standard which equates to 1.6-1.7m of drop in the line being protected from siphoning. If the main fuel tank is deeper than this then a longer suction hose is required. If the total drop in the line is more than 1.7m then the unit should be calibrated by us upon ordering(the top module can also be sent back for calibration).

The fact they are pulling from the top of the tank and have an anti siphon valve is why usually they will be fitted with the need for a Tigerloop for burners or oil lifters for Aga(wick) type appliances. The resistance of the anti siphon valve is the equivalent of having a lift in the line rather than having a gravity feed, so the burner pumps need to be opened into a 2 pipe system which allows the pumps to have a greater suction. Tigerloops allow for a 2 pipe system to be created without returning to the tank + allow the air(from the oil being in a state of negative pressure) to aspirate from the return loop. Wick fed appliances need gravity feed so an oil lifter would be necessary.

One of the main service issues overlooked will be the floating suction pipe, this is made out of rubber and suspended in the tank so that it can draw oil from the top of the fluid. Being rubber and fitted outside suspended in kerosene this pipe will need to be checked and nipped up at the top connection to the Tanktop from time to time - we recommend annually upon boiler service along with checking of the filter in the Tanktop. A leaking joint will allow air to leak in without leaking oil out as the line will be under negative pressure. Also these are usually fitted around the same area as the fill point and inspection cap, its quite common for delivery drivers to just put their nozzle into the inspection cap and fill up at various angles which at up to 4-500lpm and 8 bar pressure will tie into the need to check and tighten the suction pipe. Since January 2020 the rubber pipe is a very premium automotive quality hose which I am unware of any hardening as yet. Older hoses will probably harden after a couple of years an need replacing, if they harden then you can either experience not being able to seal at the top connection or in extreme cases the rubber hose staying up as a hard loop and the oil level dropping below it.

On the outlet usually we supply the valves with a 10mm push fit. Some tank manufacturer specific kits come with a flexi pipe and another push fit for hard pipe connection outside of the tank. When using a push fit with flexi pipe it is important to have ample slack at the push fit connections as the elasticity of the pipe against the internal sealing o'ring on the push fit will cause it to give way if it is taught. If using a hard pipe connection directly into the push fit it is important to have it very straight and free from burrs, pull back the collar insert pipe then release - simply pushing in hard pipe at potential angles could catch the o'ring and cause damage. The option is there to remove the push fit and install a 1/4" - 10mm stud for hard pipe connection.

Finally in the case of tanks with support struts moving across the mid section or maybe very thin shapes - the suction pipe has the potential to get caught. We manufacture a version suitable for rigid suction pipe connection which is supplied with a 10mm compression fitting for the suction pipe. The engineer can then use 10mm copper pipe to make their own suction to the bottom of the tank - recommend bending a hook at the bottom to avoid pulling from the very base of the tank where sediment and water will gather. Obviously in this case it draws from the bottom of the tank but the point it draws from can be tailored somewhat, the main benefit of the Atkinson Tanktop at this point would be the anti siphon valve over a gravity feed tank.

If any further advice is needed or general questions let me know,

Matt - Senior Technical Manager

Atkinson Equipment Ltd

Best regards
Matt Lurc
Senior Technical Sales Manager
Atkinson Equipment Limited
Tel: (01373) 822220 ext. 239
DDI: (01373) 821617
Fax: (01373) 826996

Prob not logged in nothing in the approval queue

Yes the rubber hoses were the issue as confirmed by the above haven’t fitted any of the new ones as tbh top discharge tanks are not as common as bottom discharge normally find there sunk / cast in eg old garages where they haven’t been updated yet
 
Sustained cold above ground will eventually migrate through the exposed pipe/oil to the underground pipe/oil, insulation above ground may prevent this or delay this happening.
 
Last edited:
If you want to insulate it go ahead no harm
 
Hi Shaun,

I was logged in I think it was just the length of the post and being that we put member type as company with an interest. It didn't get to the point of approval you click the post reply button and it said something along the lines of your post looks like spam or the content please change it and try again.
 
Just in response to your note on sinking, we haven't ever had that reported as a failure in the float, knowing how they are constructed I would say unlikely to be a fault. However I am aware some tank manufacturers and/or engineers actually punctured the float to turn it into a weight and keep the hose down straight, I assume this was to get over any potential issues of hoses staying up(through hardening) or getting caught on sides of small tanks over time.
 
Are the floats prone to getting caught on the sides of oil tanks? specifically those without internal struts and round, what would be the best place to instal one in a round tank, central is not an option due to the lid, one side near the external brace is my preference due to the availability of a vertical fence post to run the 10mm feed pipe to the unit.
 
Prone would suggest common, I probably get a couple of reports a year and thus far seems to only be very slimline tanks with certain moulded shapes in the side. If the tank has support struts running straight through the middle obviously this could be a risk of getting caught, would be fine as long as it runs underneath the strut and stays there though as would just be constantly submerged in fuel.
 
Are the floats prone to getting caught on the sides of oil tanks? specifically those without internal struts and round, what would be the best place to instal one in a round tank, central is not an option due to the lid, one side near the external brace is my preference due to the availability of a vertical fence post to run the 10mm feed pipe to the unit.

You do know you have to use a pre made outlet eg bsp boss which normally are only under the lid / hatch ? You can’t drill your own
 
Last edited:
I was just about to say if its plastic tanks you can make your own fixing point yes. The more modern standard versions don't have a thread anymore just 3 legs a gasket and self tapping screws. You can make your own on metal tanks but would really have to be empty to avoid cutting sparks. The old versions had thread on the bottom so could screw into a socket and also a flange nut which could be used if the inside could be accessed. We still do the version with the thread on the bottom and flange nut but these are more expensive now as we still have to turn the base on a CNC machine fully to make it rather than just machine the casting.

you can use the 3 leg modern version on steel tanks if using self drilling bolts, and the mentioned cutting the hole when the conditions are correct for it!
 

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