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Replace central heating gate valve with 2-port valve

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Barnjet

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My house has a separate central heating loop that heats an annex. The annex loop has 3 x radiators (all with TRV), pump (manually switched) and a gate valve. The gate valve is very awkwardly sited, and difficult to operate, so I am wondering whether it is a good idea to replace this with 2-port zoning valve that is controlled by the pump switch. So pump off = port vv shut, and pump on = port vv open.

Any thoughts gratefully received
 
Can you turn just the annex 3 rads on eg they heat up or do you have to turn the main heating on aswell ?
 
A zone valve won't last forever so you'll be swapping a hard-to-operate gate valve for a hard-to-replace zone valve.

Would replacing the gate valve with a good-quality full-bore lever operated ball-valve be a solution? Lever valves are typically much easier to operate at arms length than gate valves.
 
ShaunCorbs said:
Can you turn just the annex 3 rads on eg they heat up or do you have to turn the main heating on aswell ?
Click to expand...
The main heating must be on for the annex heating to work, though with the gate valve fully open, there is some circulation in the annex with the main house pump running and the annex pump off.
 
Chuck said:
A zone valve won't last forever so you'll be swapping a hard-to-operate gate valve for a hard-to-replace zone valve.

Would replacing the gate valve with a good-quality full-bore lever operated ball-valve be a solution? Lever valves are typically much easier to operate at arms length than gate valves.
Click to expand...

A lever valve would still need panelling to be removed, though I agree it is easier to operate than a gate valve. Once the panelling is removed then access is easy. I just want something the wife can do without having to remove panelling and though maybe a 2-port valve would do the trick. And it has to look "pretty" if you know what I mean ;)
 
Barnjet said:
The main heating must be on for the annex heating to work, though with the gate valve fully open, there is some circulation in the annex with the main house pump running and the annex pump off.
Click to expand...

So why not leave the valve open and leave the pump off ?
 
Barnjet said:
That would heat the annex every time the main house heating was on
Click to expand...

Shouldn’t do as no need for the extra pump then and just shut the trvs / frost setting etc
 
ShaunCorbs said:
Shouldn’t do as no need for the extra pump then and just shut the trvs / frost setting etc
Click to expand...
I see what you mean, but the main house pump isn’t man enough by itself to get a good flow of heat into the annex. Perhaps, I could experiment with the annex lock shield valves, and main pump settings? But, I really wonder if pumping hot water along a 35m loop, with 12m underground to building that is mostly unoccupied, is the most economical use of heating oil.
 
Barnjet said:
I see what you mean, but the main house pump isn’t man enough by itself to get a good flow of heat into the annex. Perhaps, I could experiment with the annex lock shield valves, and main pump settings? But, I really wonder if pumping hot water along a 35m loop, with 12m underground to building that is mostly unoccupied, is the most economical use of heating oil.
Click to expand...

Yes basically open the valve and see if it heats etc

But if the trvs / lockshield valves are off you won’t have any heat going up that leg unless the pipes are joined at the end
 
In the end decided to follow Chuck’s advice and fit a Pegler full bore ball valve. Simple and effective. 😎
 

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