Search results

That could work. Some timers are SPDT, so one could put two controllers like the one you linked downstream of that, one set to day temperature, the other to night. The probes are way smaller than the pocket in the cylinder, so two of them would certainly fit. It is just a shame one can't get...

That thread is pretty old, but it is pretty much exactly what I have now, except that the boiler has been updated to Ideal's modern equivalent of the FF360. The controls are all on the diagram, it is just very simple. A mechanical thermostat controls the cylinder temperature, which the boiler...

The boiler is a heat only boiler with external pump that heats a thermal store, controlled by a mechanical cylinder stat. I had a thread on it a while back when I was designing it. https://www.plumberstalk.net/threads/please-criticize-my-plan.111888/post-1079627 I am too cheap to heat the hot...

This one looks like the right idea, but from the description is does not seem to be able to program different temperatures for day/night. I only need an amp or two, just enough for the switched live to the boiler and the pump. The UFH stats are programmable, but you can't set the differential...

I bought one of these: and I am using it to control the temperature of my hot tub, and it works great. Does anyone know of a device like this that does not use plugs but rather can be wired in? I am looking for something to control my cylinder, that can be programmed down at night with the...

I was using generic closed cell foam insulation from Screwfix, the grey stuff with a slit in it 13mm thick. I don't have room in a lot of places for much thicker. All the duct tape I have seen dries out after a few years and falls off, I can't imagine that people can actually use it to seal...

Does anyone have recommendations for tape to seal the seams in foam pipe insulation? Most tape seems to get brittle over time and lose its stickiness and lets go. Also does anyone know of a foam pipe wrap? There are a lot of spots around pipe clamps, valves, pumps, etc. that cannot be covered...

Does anyone know of a weather compensation unit that can be fitted to a cylinder? I have an Ideal Logic Max H24 which heats a thermal store. The boiler can take an Ideal weather compensation unit to raise the target flow temperature as the outside temperature drops, but the store temperature...

I need someone to replace my boiler, I am thinking to get an Intergas HRE 24 SB. Our current boiler (and old Ideal) is in the kitchen, and we would like to relocate it to the laundry room or loft, so a new gas line needs to be run. I would prefer someone local in Norwich that can also do the...

I have an old FF360 I was thinking about replacing, but in the end it just does not seem economical. It is rated at 78% efficient, so I suppose a new boiler might be able to shave 10-15% off the gas bill, but would that realistically pay for itself? It looks like parts for the Ideal are still...

It seems combi boilers are now cheaper than regular or system boilers, in some cases by quite a bit. I suppose they make a lot more of them and it is just economics of scale. Is it possible to install a combi and just leave the hot water disconnected, and/or turn it off? I am pretty sure you...

I am about to replace my radiators (and piping) and doing the heat loss calculations. I am wondering if the T50 rating on radiators is still reasonable. Wouldn't T40 be more efficient with today's boilers, or would the difference be hardly noticeably? I guess T40 would also be at the upper...

Does anyone know of programmable TRVs that would not look out of place on period cast iron radiators? Even finding regular TRVs is tricky, all the ones that "look good" seem to be very expensive and very good quality.

I am installing a 300 liter stainless cylinder, and it is not quite level. The floor is level, but there is a very small tilt on the casing at the bottom, maybe 1/4 inch, but enough to make it look dodgy against the plumb wall. The cylinder does not have metal feet or anything, it appears to...

Here is a pic of a fitting on a duplex stainless buffer cylinder. The thread looks to be 1" BSPP. Any idea of the best way to connect to this? Is there some kind of gasket/o-ring/olive meant for these? or is it best to use a tapered fitting with pipe with dope and hemp?

I am installing a stainless cylinder to be used as a central heating buffer that looks to have 1" female tapered fittings. I was going to thread in brass fittings, but was thinking about galvanic corrosion since dissimilar metals are involved. The water will have inhibitor. The tank is duplex...

I did look at this one: 2060x550 Stainless Steel Buffer Vessel (290 Litre) - https://shop.newarkcoppercylinder.co.uk/2060x550-stainless-steel-buffer-vessel Again about twice the price of the Telford with no immersion boss.

So after looking around a while for a plain 300 liter stainless cylinder with enough connections I find: 1) Gledhill flexible buffer store 2) Telford standard buffer (1/2 price of the Gledhill, with 3K immersion, dual stat, and TPRV included) 3) Joule buffer (4x the Telford price at Plumbcity...

I am about to replace the microbore heating system in my house, and need to buy all the copper pipe and fittings. In Canada, copper pipe came in different grades, and if you wanted top quality you could buy the thicker "L" type pipe, rather than the thinner "M" that is mostly used. Here in the...