1930's stopcock seized on central heating circuit | Central Heating Forum | Plumbers Forums
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Discuss 1930's stopcock seized on central heating circuit in the Central Heating Forum area at Plumbers Forums

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M

mike_london

Hi,

We have a cracked nut on a stopcock that is also in a tight space (two bricks high by two bricks wide). We can't close the stopcock even though we've liberally applied WD40 to it. So we are now looking for advice on how to resolve the situation.

20131022_114201.jpg

The cracked nut is under the epoxy putty. As you can see there is insufficient space next to the pipe too.

SANY0329.jpg

Thanks

Mike
 
can you not dig out under it at all to get to and replace it. Loooks like youvee got a right job on there pal
 
came across the same last week on old mild steel pipe, only one answer, lay a new main in mdpe and new stopcock, it will mean you get some water pressure and flow again!
 
night mare job mate going to have to be cut out and a section replaced we had loads of these on a job in queens gate pipes were rotten be aware some of these pipes were laid in asbestos lagging
 
Thanks for all the responses. We've shut off the main circuit to the heating system and plan to freeze the pipes leading to this one. After that without any pressure from the massive radiators we hope to be able to seal the crack in the nut without having to take everything out. Crossing fingers on that one. Cheers.
 
I would think outside the problem. As its a heating circuit then you must know where there is
better access either end. Find two better places to cut out the whole defunct section.

Use plastic or whatever to join the two ends and find a new route if you can.

Freezing so close to the work area is very dangerous - ie leaks and you might well
just cause more probs nearby. Thats what I would do based on you piccys and
exp CHK
 
Well done CHK very helpful post
As above , you need min of 500mm to be able to work safe , or drain down and then work on the pipe in that small area , but you will be alot better to expose it as much as you can or work from another place
 
i can see that freezer being on a long while when the steel falls apart there is no nut on that pipework my bet is the steel is leaking at the joint
 
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From the look of that pipework.....i wouldn't freeze that!
thats coming from someone who happily changes stop cocks live with nothing more than a towel....


find the loop and cut a new run in!

failing that kango that section around it out so you can replace that section!!

The problem with "sealing" that crack up is, soon as the heating runs.......what does metal do under increased temperature?

get my point?
 
i can see that freezer being on a long while when the steel falls apart there is no nut on that pipework my bet is the steel is leaking at the joint
Steve is spot on, look at it closely. 1. It's not a stopcock. 2. There is no nut there, it's an F&F valve (gate or globe) the steel is screwed straight it.
Replace section & valve this can't be repaired !!!
 
mdpe on a heating circuit? tie ya horse up friend and share a shot of red eye

should have put me glasses on :) and read the title, as I said it looked identical to a cold main I had, custards are digging their own trench still :)
 
Managed to solder new fittings within 150mm of an ice plug formed with a rothenberger freezemaster before. That was using mapp gas and keeping a careful eye on freezer head temperature. Stayed at -19C the whole time. Did have a push fit stop end handy though!

The electric pipe freezers are amazing bits of kit. Mine is always carried in the van.
 
croft am i reading you have been to this job and solved it ? CHK
Managed to solder new fittings within 150mm of an ice plug formed with a rothenberger freezemaster before. That was using mapp gas and keeping a careful eye on freezer head temperature. Stayed at -19C the whole time. Did have a push fit stop end handy though!

The electric pipe freezers are amazing bits of kit. Mine is always carried in the van.
 
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