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rocketmanbkk

Plumbers Arms member
Plumber
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Hi Friends

i did 2 jobs today.

First was to replace a mixer tap with a Brita filter tap. Got the old mixer off ok, assembled the Brita ok and fitted it. The issue was that the flexi connectors were long and kinked. I got the cold on ok but the hot leaked from the isolation valve. Put a bit of ptfe around the thread and still dripped. Had to use all my strength to tighten it until drip stopped. Then, the green light on the tap bottom wouldn't come on, I was perplexed, kept trying to reset it, after 10 mins I had enough and called Brita, low and behold there is now no green light if the sticker at the reset button is red!!!! Learned something anyway.

so first question is what would you have done with the isolation valve drip?

Next job was to replace a shower pump with same upgraded model. So, closed gate calves under bath, isolated electric. Undid all 4 flexis on pump, drained water into bowl, all ok so far. Push fit flexis to 22mm pipes would not budge, hard to get to also. Then, water started coming out of hot, tried to tighten gate valve more but nothing! Had to be quick, put a towel under, anyway hot all connected ok. Cold flexi at bottom needed a washer with a mesh, had a massive problem getting it on, very hard indeed and cold water started leaking as per hot. Anyway, did it in the end, connected electric and all ok.


So, my questions here are, what's the best way to get old push fit connectors off pipes? And what do you do if valves leak?

also how li g should it take to swap a mixer tap and how long to swap a pump. It took me 2hrs each.

It was good for my confidence today, learned and enjoyed it.

look forward to receiving advice.

thanks

Rocket
 
Read my sig below.
 
flexis are evil..thats why god invented copper.....

Flexi's where around first? Learn something new every day eh? ;)
 
Stuart Turner actually states that its better to use flexis on pumps to reduce noise
 
To remove flexis i use my shifters. Open them so they just clear the pipe and slide up the pipe and they depress the collet saves getting sore fingers :)
 
Stuart Turner actually states that its better to use flexis on pumps to reduce noise

Is it sad that I actually know who/what Stuart Turner is?
 
Lol, ok. Thanks.

is there not a tool you can get to help removal?

The ones earlier were stuck fast, wouldn't budge.
 
Firstly, and this is no dig at you. If you had to tighten the flexi on the tap to stop it leaking "with all your strength" (as you said) then something is wrong. Don't worry about it, but there is very little in the domestic world of plumbing that requires us to tighten something with every ounce we have. You probably had a dodgy O ring on the flexi or washer (depends what type it was). If it's a dodgy washer on a flexi, you just cut right through the rubber washer when you 'graunch' it too hard. Then it dribbles.

With an O ring on a flexi, you basically cut the O ring with you over tighten it.

I guess you have over tightened it, and cut the rubber washer, then graunched it with all you have got and are now making a metal to metal seal. I also bet it is slightly weeping.

This is no dig at you, I've done exactly as I describe myself.

My other point regarding the shower pump. I got caught out big time changing a shower pump when the gate valve wasn't holding. Best to ensure you have proper isolation, and always (this is in my tips thread) have a pushfit stop end in the toolbox next to you. So if all else fails, you can whip the dodgy joint off, and bang the stop end on and only lose a couple of litres of water. (which is still a lot when it's coming through someones ceiling!!).

With regards to pushfits. They tend to bind when they're under pressure. So always show some caution when they're tough to get off. It may be that you need to open another outlet to release the pressure, or the fitting may still be under pressure as the feed is still live!

Using an adjustable does work. I have a cheaper set in my tool box for this purpose, and give it a whack with another spanner to help it on it's way.

Hope this helps!
 
Last edited:
Use two pairs of shifters. One to depress the collet and one ti whack the other one with:)
 
All advice taken, the flexi was a cause of concern! Done plenty before but this was a bugger. Would you ever use ptfe on compressions? I know people say never but I am thinking about making sure. Just want to get it right, best practice etc.


thanks all again, replies are much appreciated.

rocket
 
if you do remember its the olive that makes the seal not the threadso if needs be put some liquid ptfe on the olive, you might not be able to undo it again though.:smiley2:
 
Yeah, this one was a flexi tap connector. Ill get some liquid ptfe though, thanks.

also, why is it that when you attach the connector in the tap and then screw the other end in the pipe the flexi hose twists? Am I tightening too much then? It's happened a couple if times to me but I'd like to know why.

cheers
 
Firstly, and this is no dig at you. If you had to tighten the flexi on the tap to stop it leaking "with all your strength" (as you said) then something is wrong. Don't worry about it, but there is very little in the domestic world of plumbing that requires us to tighten something with every ounce we have. You probably had a dodgy O ring on the flexi or washer (depends what type it was). If it's a dodgy washer on a flexi, you just cut right through the rubber washer when you 'graunch' it too hard. Then it dribbles.

With an O ring on a flexi, you basically cut the O ring with you over tighten it.

I guess you have over tightened it, and cut the rubber washer, then graunched it with all you have got and are now making a metal to metal seal. I also bet it is slightly weeping.

This is no dig at you, I've done exactly as I describe myself.

My other point regarding the shower pump. I got caught out big time changing a shower pump when the gate valve wasn't holding. Best to ensure you have proper isolation, and always (this is in my tips thread) have a pushfit stop end in the toolbox next to you. So if all else fails, you can whip the dodgy joint off, and bang the stop end on and only lose a couple of litres of water. (which is still a lot when it's coming through someones ceiling!!).

With regards to pushfits. They tend to bind when they're under pressure. So always show some caution when they're tough to get off. It may be that you need to open another outlet to release the pressure, or the fitting may still be under pressure as the feed is still live!

Using an adjustable does work. I have a cheaper set in my tool box for this purpose, and give it a whack with another spanner to help it on it's way.

Hope this helps![/QUOTE

Enough helpful advice PICTURES:p
 
try twisting the hose the opposite way then do the compression fitting that way it will end up not twisted.
 
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