2 Port Zone Valve question

[Zammo1001]

Hi all,

I have been to look at a job today where a 2 port zone valve has packe up but it does work manually.

Am i able to only to change just part of this zone vale without taking the body from the pipes?

Also the main cable that comes from the valve is onlt about 20cm long and goes into a 2 amp three pin plug and plugs into a local socket

Now will i guess this is for firstly the power and secondly to the stat as thier are no other wires going anywhere else?

Many thanks for any help Nath

 

[dontknowitall]

If it still works manually then you can take the cover off and change the motor (two wires). Costs around £12. If this doesn't work the actuator (the metal box) costs around £45 (and you don't have to drain the system).

 

[Zammo1001]

Thanks for the quick reply!

Are the motors a mostly the same for all zone vaves if replaced?


I have just been doing a bit of research on the Faulty Honeywell 2 Port Valve which they have and they say:

Sometimes it is possible to free a sticking valve, at least temporarily, by repeatedly driving the valve open manually using the lever (with the system switched off) or by removing the power head (the actuator) and repeatedly operating the valve manually using a small spanner. But be warned! Early Honeywell motorised valves had actuators (powerheads) which could not be removed without draining down first. If you disconnect these, water will flood out. We believe that the valves with powerheads which can be safely removed are the ones with the "pip" on the top of the silver metal case but we are not certain of this. If we come across a very old valve without the pip (and these are usually 20 or more years old) we never remove the powerhead

 

[doitmyself]

Are the motors a mostly the same for all zone vaves if replaced?

Yes

Early Honeywell motorised valves had actuators (powerheads) which could not be removed without draining down first.

Honeywell stopped making these in 1987!

We believe that the valves with powerheads which can be safely removed are the ones with the "pip" on the top of the silver metal case but we are not certain of this.

That's correct, the valves with removable actuators have a very small bump on the top of the actuator at the end where the data label is located.

If the valve is stiff, it can often be freed by lubricating the shaft with a little silicon lubricant or WD40. Remove the actuator first. The spindle should turn easily by hand, but only about 20 degrees between stops. Set valve to the Man position when removing/replacing the actuator.

 

[GPSNewcastle]

If it was me I would suggest replacing the whole valve as then I am happy that when I leave everything is in full working order and I can provide a guarantee.

 

[washer]

I would change the whole valve if the actuator is secured to the base with 4 screws, as it would need draining or bunging if removed.

If the actuator is secured with just 2 screws, i would just change the actuator, obviously a lot less potential grieve.

 

[Zammo1001]

Many thanks all good stuff

When i operated the valve manually it worked first time so i do not think anything is sticking.

If i was to replace the whole thing have you ever seen a zone valve wired into a small 2 amp plug when then plugs into a socket of some kind could this be the power and link to the stat?

Cheers Nath

 

[quality]

I have a lot worse than what you are describing but it does not mean that what you have is ok - What do you mean By a 2 amp plug ?

 

[GPSNewcastle]

Plug? How is the customer operating this?

 

[Zammo1001]

Here we go

 

[Zammo1001]

The socket is just out of the picture bottom left. I think this may have been put in for easy changing?

I am now think why didn't i check the fuses?

 

[Zammo1001]

Plug? How is the customer operating this?

I know what your saying

 

[GPSNewcastle]

The customer is using it to zone the heating and just flicking the plug in the airing cupboard?

 

[PlumbBobBob]

it's a round pin plug

 

[fuzzy]

pretty standard mate, drain down full swap, its a full job done then pal

 

[Zammo1001]

I take it all power and communication wires with the stat will be in this plug then?

 

[fuzzy]

oh ive seen the rest now, you should really update the wiring, a plug in a vylinder cupboard is a little dangerous for my liking. if they are just using it to turn to hw on or off why not replce it with a manual valve??????????????????????????

 

[dontknowitall]

Blimey!! (Reaction to photograph!!!)

There's no stat! There's live neutral and (presumably) earth. That's all there is. The zone valve is basically a switch which moves a paddle in the pipe it's sitting on to open or close. In this case, when it's plugged in and turned on the valve opens and when turned off the paddle shuts the pipe.

On more modern systems (like since the Victorians - just being cheeky here) there will be a "socket" or box full of around 15-20 wires or more and these will link the boiler, pump, zone valves, room thermostat and cylinder thermostat, programmer and other items if there are some.

On your system you have just the zone valve connected to a mains socket. Hopefully this will make some sense of this situation.

 

[Zammo1001]

Yes lots of sense thats exactly what i thought just needed backing up with it!

If he wants it up dating then its alot bigger as i believe he has another 2 zones

I may as well replace this with a full bore lever valve if he doen't want anything updateing suck as stats and things?

 

[stevetheplumber]

looks like a realy old valve with no microswitch or micro switch not conected most valves need 5 wires connected

 

[dontknowitall]

If it was me I'd be looking at safety issues, the main ones being presumably the cylinder does vent to somewhere safely? The second one is what happens if the customer turns the valve off while the boiler's fired up (assuming there is a boiler) or what happens if there's a power cut or if the customer forgets to turn it on. This requires a pipe stat to trigger the zone valve to open. Also round pin plug means old electricity and I'd like an electrician to give his opinion in conjunction with mine. For example, is the consumer unit safe enough?

I wouldn't want to tell you exactly what to do without seeing the set up, but if it was me I'd want to be happy to leave it safely. And if the customer wasn't prepared to have this done, I'd walk away. The programmer and automation of it are very much secondary in my opinion.