2 questions.

[finchy01]

1) And I'm embarrassed to ask this but, what's the simpletons way of defining pressure and flow rate. Because I have a job with poor flow rate which gets a lot worse when 2 or more outlets opened but 3bar (it's an unvented system so I was surprised at the poor flow rate)

2) I'm getting 16ltrs which reduces to 12 when I go through the water softner. How can I increase this.

A its unvented even at 16ltrs that's not enough. My thought was stick in a cold water boost set with break tank but wondered if you guys had a better idea. Monies are no object but I don't want to charge the client for this when there might be a far simpler and lower cost option for them.

Thanks as always.

 

[finchy01]

Wrong sub forum

 

[Whyme]

Wrong sub forum

Sub what the who the what the

 

[Dotty]

Wrong sub forum ����

Moved.

 

[Chalked]

You need to be checking the pressure and flow rate before the softner first. If this is good, then the water softner is the culprit. If not, they may have a small water main.
You can get high flow water softners. Some softners have inlet and outlet hoses they are very restrictive. They can have filters in the hose connections, or inside the softner head.
If the softner Is ok then it's onto the pressurised cylinder. There are a few things on this that can cause your problem. But to work on them you need to be G3 registered and qualified. If you are, private message one of the moderators and we can tell you the associated problems.

If you find the water main is poor, a pump and break tank fitted AFTER the softner is the solution.
I have a very simple bit of kit to check water flow/ pressure. It's a bit of 15mm hep2o pipe with a tee, this has a pressure gauge on it. After that, is a lever valve and a couple more feet of pipe. I connect one end to the best water source available. Close the lever tap, turn the water on and measure static pressure ( how much the water main has with no flow). Then turn the lever valve on and fill a bucket. Look at the gauge and record the pressure and then time how long it takes to fill. This will give you dynamic pressure ( working pressure) and how many litres a min the system can give.

Hope this helps.

 

[finchy01]

Thanks for reply. I am g3 but the issue starts before Combi valve on kitchen cold so I've discounted that as a problem. It's 16ltrs bypassing softner, 12ltrs with softner in line. I was thinking cold water boost up in loft (after softner as you also mentioned) but as I say, was looking for any other alternatives as upsizing mains isn't feasible as it's down the end of a VERY long track.

 

[ShaunCorbs]

Thanks for reply. I am g3 but the issue starts before Combi valve on kitchen cold so I've discounted that as a problem. It's 16ltrs bypassing softner, 12ltrs with softner in line. I was thinking cold water boost up in loft (after softner as you also mentioned) but as I say, was looking for any other alternatives as upsizing mains isn't feasible as it's down the end of a VERY long track.

your supposed to have at least 20-25lpm on your mains for an unvented system, so if you havent you shouldnt have installed one without sorting the pressure and flow

two options

ask your water supply what flow and pressures are in your area and maybe upgrade your incoming water mains to 25-32mm alk

or break tank and pump

 

[finchy01]

Thanks guys. I thought I'd have been a wash with suggestions on this one but seems my initial thought of boost set is best option.

Shaun, I didn't install this. I've just been called in to sort this amongst other problems. Upgrading water mains isn't an option I don't think as like I said, it's a long run from external stop tap.