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TFGplumbing

Plumbers Arms member
Plumber
Gas Engineer
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temperature on the dhw does not get as hot as it should, its just a little hotter than luke warm, ch works fine

The diverter is not bypassing
It fires fine on dhw
its only three years old & not in a hard water area so the phe should be okay.

couldnt remove the case because some kitchen fitter has put a cabinet closer than 600mm to it (sweet Jesus).
going back to look at it next week minus the cabinet. I want to test the dhw sensor first, any other avenues that may be worth investigating and may save me tearing my hair out with worc tech support? cheers
 
Gas rates and water flow rates? I'd start there and make sure everything is as it should be then look at components.
 
shes giving about 10 litres per min give or take, I'am pretty sure its a 40C rise on these. Ill get my thermometer out next time. There's no way its getting a 40C rise, unless the mains bloody alot colder than I thought, cheers guys
 
That's the biggest complaint when the weather starts getting colder, hot water isn't as hot as it was in the middle of summer. Ye, at 10 l/min, you should be getting a 40C rise on the cold.
 
That's the biggest complaint when the weather starts getting colder, hot water isn't as hot as it was in the middle of summer. Ye, at 10 l/min, you should be getting a 40C rise on the cold.

she did mention its been more noticeable snice the autumn has come. I tried cutting down the flow rate a bit and it made literally no difference.
 
Plate might be blocked. If the boiler goes to max rate then min but still not getting enough hot water, could be that. Can you check what the water is like in the system? I had to clean one a few weeks back. I got it out quite easy by manoeuvring it round and out the bottom.
 
Like already said check gas pressures n flow rates. IF heating working fine then pumps ok. Measure temp going into exchanger on heat side. Check connections at stats and measure resistance . Make sure the spring clip is secure against pipework.
I had similar problem with same boiler and it was diverter motor . Take off the green cover and just make sure the arm is moving fully up/down.
 
Could be starting to block up, changed boiler but not cleaned system.
 
Take the flow and return temps to check the plate for blockages on the heating side. Think you are looking for about a 25 degree difference if its working properly. Also check the diverter as said, take the green cover off and turn the power off and then on to the boiler. When the power comes back on the arm should move up and down if its working properly.
 
Going back to basics even without taking the case off the boiler.
A quick effective check can be made by gas rating the boiler in service mode, 28i is going to come in pretty close to that input ??

If it is too low the boiler requires further checks works/ar notice ?? whilst you are there.

Always cover your own back.
 
The boilers max temp on dhw was about 40C with a K ohms reading of about 4.45 across the dhw ntc - Worcesters spec is 5.2 K ohms. Changed the dhw ntc and its now working great. Everything else on the boiler as fine.

Thanks for your help guys!
 
Well done mate. A quick fix.
 
I'am getting better at fault finding now, but its been a steep old learning curve since I went self employed.
 
was going to say check ntc if not cycling on hw. i tend to go for plate if it cycles. ntc if it doesn't and isnt passing to heating :)

glad you got it sorted mate. best way to learn is to just go to the jobs etc
 
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