28mm End Caps

[Berne]

Hi All,
Im not a plumber but I need advice on end caps onto a 28mm copper coil.

I have a copper coil just formed and rolled and I have cut it in one place, I now need to put two stop ends on to the coil. I intend using the presoldered end caps.

I know this much about the process, please advise on errors or omissions:

I have a little 70 watt gas soldering Iron, do you think it might have enough heat power for a good end cap finish or will a blow torch be necessary?

Using proper steel wool and paper, clean pipe outside, and end cap inside to a shine, apply flux outer of pipe and inner of endcap, mate the cap with the pipe and heat, what signs do I watch for and how do will I know when enough heat has been applied and how will I know when a good connection has taken place and is complete?

When time permits,

Berne

 

[garry]

to be honest mate i dont think it will be hot enough. i would use a blow torch (but it is pricey for a one time use) and i always add a bit more solder

 

[migoplumber]

berne, soldering iron wont do it. you need a blow lamp, your description of how to solder is good, you just dont have enough heat!

why not buy a couple of compression cap ends?

shaun

 

[stevetheplumber]

compressions probably best as the coil pipe will probably be a bit diseorted
so use the cap, without the nut and ring, to round the pipe of again you may even need to tap it on with a hamer

sorry just realised we havent answered the questions you asked heat the cap keeping the flame moving around the edge then just dab the solder on to the pipe untill you see it start to melt on contact and then feed it into the joint if its hot enough youll see it run around the joint
most fluxes are now self cleaning so unless the copper is very dirty you dont actually need to wire wool the copper

 

[Robtheplumb]

to be honest mate i dont think it will be hot enough. i would use a blow torch (but it is pricey for a one time use) and i always add a bit more solder

WHY? this is just a waste of solder

 

[migoplumber]

Rob we all have our preffered ways of doing stuff, and if throwing a bit more soldar keeps us happy, then so be it! at the end of the day the client pays for the soldar!

shaun

 

[HTB]

Or he could buy a can of that fluid that now "sticks" copper together, never tried it myself, just read about it the other day.

 

[justlead1]

Hi I am not quite sure of the situation, however if you are capping off both ends of the coil and using capillary fittings you are likely to get a leak due to the vessel being heated during soldering process creating greater air pressure inside vessel/coil, this will escape leaving a pin hole in the soldered joint. Good Luck

 

[Berne]

Hi,
To assist this is an antenna for ham radio. Again, Im using presoldered end caps...do I need additional solder applied to these endcaps to ensure a fully efficient joint..or...do I only need to apply heat to the endcaps to ensure an efficient joint? If only heat is required to the internal solder how do I tell when the joint is finished and efficient? If both heat and new solder is required...do I heat the internal solder first ( what time period of direct heat should ensure correct gelling of tube to endcap? ) and apply new solder later or visaversa?

To reply re the pinhole...it seems this is unavoidable, Im hoping it will not dramatically effect intended performance.

B&Q £10 torch £4 refills, great value for hobbies. All contributions to date appreciated.

Berne

 

[justlead1]

Hi. Clean the ends of copper pipe and inside fitting apply a smear of flux to all surfaces, If you have access to a gas cooker hold the fitting over the flame within a minuet you will see the silver colour of the solder appear that ones done let it cool and repeat. Good Luck

 

[traineedrip]

as said youll see evidence of the internal solder ring melting by it appearing around the edge of the fitting. id wait until you see that before adding any more solder

 

[Bernie2]

Hi,
To assist this is an antenna for ham radio. Again, Im using presoldered end caps...do I need additional solder applied to these endcaps to ensure a fully efficient joint..or...do I only need to apply heat to the endcaps to ensure an efficient joint? If only heat is required to the internal solder how do I tell when the joint is finished and efficient? If both heat and new solder is required...do I heat the internal solder first ( what time period of direct heat should ensure correct gelling of tube to endcap? ) and apply new solder later or visaversa?

To reply re the pinhole...it seems this is unavoidable, Im hoping it will not dramatically effect intended performance.

B&Q £10 torch £4 refills, great value for hobbies. All contributions to date appreciated.

Berne

Go careful as has been said, you are sealing air inside a sealed tube and heating it. It'll expand and might blow more than a pin hole in the solder, a flying end cap is a spectacular sight and if its hot which it will be, watch whatever it lands on doesn't catch fire or that it doesn't put somebodies eye out.

If its not intended for potable water you might be better getting some low melting point solder to keep the heat down. Being quick and careful you will probably do it okay, just watch out for the heat and flying solder or endcaps.

 

[buffy27]

whats the craic, there is a large american dude on u tube -plumbing tuitorials. he does a good demo an soldering.

 

[Berne]

In Closing

I gotta say thank you to all the advice from everyone, I look forward to making a fair job with the end caps now.

Berne