Advice needed - Santon Premier TP210E Unvented Water Heater

[Gracechurch]

Hi,

Firstly, thank you in advance for reading and any advice is greatly appreciated.

I have recently purchased a flat with only electric and the hot water comes from the Santon Premier Unvented Water Heater (model number TP210E). As I am new to this I was wondering what is the most cost effective way of running it.

I am not 100% sure if it charges only on my economy 7 (which runs from 12.30am - 7.30am), but I don't think it does as I have noticed the meter going up from when I leave home to when I return at the end of the day. This seems to be causing high electric bills (or at least I believe this is the cause).

I have switched it off in the morning but I didn't have enough hot water to wash up in the evening when i got home, so I wondered if it fills up with cold water when turned off thus nullifying the hot water stored in the tank.

Is it more efficient to keep it on all the time, only switch it on to heat up when needed or switch it on at night before going to bed?

I am unsure how to check if the water system uses the economy 7 to only charge. But I also wondered if there is a problem as it sounds like it is constantly doing something when switched on?

many thanks
Tom

 

[steadyon]

The cylinder should have two electric immersion heaters:

1. Near the bottom of the cylinder. This should be connected to the Economy 7 circuit, and will only be available to be on for the Economy 7 hours. It will heat the whole contents of the cylinder, and when up to the pre-set heat, will shut off. During the Economy 7 on times, it will come on again if the temperature drops below the pre-set level.

2. Between half way and 2/3rds the way up the cylinder. This should be connected to the normal electricity circuit. It is intended to be used as a booster should the overnight hot water be exhausted.

Try and keep the top immersion switched off, and use only the Economy 7 immersion, which costs between 1/2 and 1/3 of the other one to run.

If you post a photograph of the cylinder and its controls, you may get more specific advice.

 

[Gracechurch]

Thank you Steadyon,

I will look this evening at the cylinder and its controls (I believe you need to unscrew the covers to expose the controls).

I will also take some images and upload them.

Thank you again, your advice is much appreciated.

Tom

 

[Aliballibee]

Do you have a "boost" controller with the Economy 7 set up? Something like this:

http://www.timeguard.com/products/c...onomy-7-digital-timeswitch-with-boost-control

As steadyon mentioned there will be the off peak / cheap supply but you should have the ability to give it a limited boost during the day, thus minimising electricity charges.

 

[Jay The Plumber]

I lived in a flat once where economy 7 was used, the timer was wrong and it cost me a fortune coming on in the daytime

 

[townfanjon]

Please do not asume you automatically have economy 7 /off peak electricity , check your lecky bill , has it got 2 readings or 1 , if its 1 , its all the same price 24/7

 

[steadyon]

Don't unscrew the covers unless you can isolate all the electrical supplies - there's live mains voltage under the caps.

Photographs of the cylinder, with the wires leading from it and the switches / controls to which those switches connect would be fine. A general photo and specific ones of the switches / controls would be ideal.

Also, check the electricity meter as townfanjon has suggested, or check the electricity bill for separate tariff readings.

 

[Gracechurch]

I have attached the images. After returning this evening and not having the water heater switched on all day, my hot water was only a small amount which ran out straight after washing my hands.

There are 2 wires which appear electrical coming from the top of the tank but one is not connected to anything (as shown in the images) the other wired directly into the switch.

I have attached images of the pipes too in case this helps.

In regards to the economy 7, I do have this as it has appeared on my bill and I have 2 meter readings. The reading for he day had not increased at all like it had been when my heater had been turned on, making me think there is a fault either in the time settings or the heater itself. I am still unsure.

Any thoughts?

Thanks
Tom

 

[steadyon]

Thank you for the photographs. My immediate impression is that it needs inspection by a plumber with a "G3" qualification as a matter of urgency, as it does not appear to have been installed properly.

In my opinion its not a matter which can be safely resolved over the internet.

 

[Gracechurch]

Thank you for the photographs. My immediate impression is that it needs inspection by a plumber with a "G3" qualification as a matter of urgency, as it does not appear to have been installed properly.

In my opinion its not a matter which can be safely resolved over the internet.

Thank you Steadyon, I will get it looked into asap.

 

[Aliballibee]

In order for the heater to operate (electrically) correctly you need two supplies:
1 - Off peak, overnight charge. This would give you lots of hot water in the morning.
2 - Normal. This is would give you the day time boost, outwith the off-peak (night time) charging

The unconnected heating element is, in my opinion, likely to be the off-peak one. The one connected to the switch would be the "normal" tariff - thus expensive.

Therefore, you probably need an electrician to check out the installation too.

As a matter of interest, do you have electric off peak / storage heaters too?

 

[Gracechurch]

In order for the heater to operate (electrically) correctly you need two supplies:
1 - Off peak, overnight charge. This would give you lots of hot water in the morning.
2 - Normal. This is would give you the day time boost, outwith the off-peak (night time) charging

The unconnected heating element is, in my opinion, likely to be the off-peak one. The one connected to the switch would be the "normal" tariff - thus expensive.

Therefore, you probably need an electrician to check out the installation too.

As a matter of interest, do you have electric off peak / storage heaters too?

Thank you for the reply. Yes I think you must be right as I was wondering why there is just a lose wire.

Yes I have electric storage heaters which seem to be operating correctly.

 

[1Steven]

Then you should have economy 7

 

[lame plumber]

the photos aren't that clear, not sure why the wanabees say it is so desperately unsafe, but I haven't been looking to close. A decent plumber with a G3 ticket allowing him to certify and work on on installing and commissioning unvented cyls should be able to wire it in safely but the nice blackened socket area might encourage them to check further and if obvious faults are seen get a sparkie to test the relevant circuits.

 

[Gracechurch]

Hi, I have arranged a tradesman to come over to look at the system who covers both plumbing and electrical.

In the meantime I have experienced some further problems that I want to get some advise on so I have a little extra knowledge when the guy comes over.

I have been switching the tank off during the day when I am out. I don't have any hot water on my return so I have to switch it on if required (for a shower or washing up etc.) this seems to really bump up my meter reading? Is the system just expensive to run or is there a problem and it is overworking or not working correctly. I have tried only turning on during the night but if I wake up and switched it off and don't use the shower immediately the water goes cold during my shower?

When I have switched it on I hear a loud buzzing/humming noise like someone is starting their car or bike and revving it once. What do you think this is?

Any advice is again appreciated.