Advice on heating layout? | Plumbing Jobs | The Job-board | Plumbers Forums
  • Welcome to PlumbersTalk.net

    Welcome to Plumbers' Talk | The new domain for UKPF / Plumbers Forums. Login with your existing details they should all work fine. Please checkout the PT Updates Forum

Welcome to the forum. Although you can post in any forum, the USA forum is here in case of local regs or laws

American Visitor?

Hey friend, we're detecting that you're an American visitor and want to thank you for coming to PlumbersTalk.net - Here is a link to the American Plumbing Forum. Though if you post in any other forum from your computer / phone it'll be marked with a little american flag so that other users can help from your neck of the woods. We hope this helps. And thanks once again.

Discuss Advice on heating layout? in the Plumbing Jobs | The Job-board area at Plumbers Forums

Status
Not open for further replies.
J

jackthehat

A quick hello to all that reads this post and thanks to all who responds with positive criticism.

We are in the process of renovating a property we bought a few months ago and unfortunately there's no central heating in the property atm and I wish to tackle the donkey work myself.
I am not looking or planning on undertaking any illegal work so will get a professional gas fitter and sparks in to do the final installation and necessary checks.
Reason I am trying to do the easy bits on my own as I have more time that money on my hands.

Below is a proposed drawing of what I am planning on doing. (pipes that does not terminate into rads goes to downstairs rads via chase in wall)

Ntop.jpg

* Uvhw system with 200-220L tank (no I won't try and fit this myself...)
* Intergas 18 Hre Sb in kitchen. (certified gas plumber will install)
* Zoned for upstairs and downstairs with 3 port valve
* 8 radiators in total (2 of which will be connected once the bathroom has been updated) Total capacity without bathroom/landing rad: 6600W
* majority of piping in hep2o with compression fittings (copper olives) with conduit where pipes goes inside the wall chase.
* 22mm headers with 15mm branching of to the rads.
* radiators been oversized by about 20%


Question that I can't seem to make sense of is if the pipe sizing would suffice for the correct flow rate?
Am i correct in thinking that 2 3 port valves would suffice for the upstairs and downstairs zoning. (1st 3 port valve calls for CH or HW or both, 2nd 3 port valve calls for upstairs Heating or Downstairs heating or both?
Any advice or positive criticism appreciated.

Couple of pics of wall chase/hung rads below:

View attachment 14256View attachment 14257View attachment 14259View attachment 14260

Regards
Jack

Edit: trying to get rid of the picture without the zone valves- please see picture with zone valves incl
 

Attachments

  • Ctop.jpg
    Ctop.jpg
    58.4 KB · Views: 136
Last edited by a moderator:
what i would do, is invite your gas safe engineer and if different your g3 plumber along to quote for the work your not allowed to do yourself and then ask there advise. Most trades will point you in the right direction so to avoid having problems when they come to do there bit and they will have to work with you to a certain degree when they want to put in the gas pipework and discharge pipework etc......

i would not use compression fitting under any floor or inside any wall.

do not use 2x3port valves, use 3 2 port valves.
 
A work colleagues brother is a G3 licence holder and was supposed to come round a while back to give me a quote on the installation. I'll get back in touch with him and see if he's interested in the job.

Thanks for your quick reply- I'm in two mind about the compression fittings as well, 1st thought was to run straight lengths into the rads via manifolds.

Regards
Jack
 
You might find that it would be more cost effective to allow an installer to do the complete piping of the system.

By all means speak to someone & offer them your skills for chasing walls, hanging rads, etc etc, but you may find that an installer insists they do the pipework as it would be there name on the certification & therefore should any problems occur with any pipework or anything else to that matter they are responsible. This also works in your favour too.
 
I agree with Tom, you need somebody to go through everything for you. Offer to be gopher/labourer, lifting boards, chasing walls, knocking holes in walls etc. Get it done in copper if you are planning this to stay put.

I've fitted boilers to new installs done by homeowner/builder and it's been 'pressure tested'. The indoor water feature is never pleasant.

Spend a little more now and save a lot more in future. Plus it will be good experience for you.
 
I've had a chat to the bloke and I'll be seeing him tomorrow evening to get an idea on pricing ect.

Hopefully he'd be ok with me doing the labouring side of things.

I'll send an update on Wednesday- he's in fact the one that's planted the idea of the intergas & uvhw system.
 
How many bathrooms ? How many peoples living there ? Why go to the expense of invented ? Why not a combi ? Intergas of course but ?
 
Just thought I'd post an update and to hear peoples criticism & thoughts on the completed installation.
Decision was made to install a combination boiler- still a bit skeptical on the recommendation thought, but can't find any fault with this boiler thus far. Boiler in a broom cupboard in kitchen.

Ferroli modena 32c zoned for upstairs and downstairs controlled via openterm 2 zone wireless Honeywell programmer.

Have to note that the programmer is doing a pretty fine job keeping the temperature at 20deg. Keeps it pegged between 19.5 & 20.5deg.

All of the installation done by myself except for the gas connection and comissioning. (proud to say that out of all the joints, only 1 leaked)

Few pics for scrutiny:
IMG_20130725_162548.jpg
IMG_20130820_121707.jpg
IMG_20130902_123252.jpgIMG_20130918_172455.jpgIMG_20130927_170906.jpgIMG_20130928_113428.jpg
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Cold do with some felt on those joists to stop expansion noises.
 
Why have you buried pipes in the wall?

And why have you had a FERROLI fitted when your original intention was intergas?

Hope you've save a bit of money to replace the PCB and repair all the leaks on boiler once warranty is up.
 
Cold do with some felt on those joists to stop expansion noises.

Lagged all the 15mm pipes that I could with 9mm armacell & the 22mm legs with 19mm armacell & have to say there's little to no expansion creaking coming from underneath the boards.
 
Good on ya! Looks like a lot of time and effort has gone in to it. As long as you are happy that's all that matters. My only negative... Shocking boiler choice!
 
Yup- still a bit skeptical on the boiler, but touch wood it's been fine so far. Plumber installed quite a few of the modena's so far & seems happy with them.
I believe it's a honeywell Pcb, but I'll update on here for sure if something does go wrong and you can tell me "I told you so"

The reason for the buried pipes are because of a concrete floor downstairs. Choice was made to chase the pipes into the walls rather than chasing the floor. Placed the 15mm tubes in 22mm conduit.

It's been fun doing it- learned a lot & got a new found confidence in soldering.

Thanks for all on the forum- spent quite a bit of time reading before tackling the task.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Jackthelad,

Why are you coming on here now looks like your'e nearly done and dusted, I take it this a little terraced house for rent, personally I would not
bury pipes in walls but you have done it now, I would never use the amount of no1 (coupling) you appeared to have used but this a sign
of inexperience, I can't imagine you have dropped a clanger on pipe size in a terrace house and with that small load, looks like you have used a
bending machine, buy a spring for your next project it will be more accurate, pretty old house too with conduit and singles, trust that is not staying,
I do hope you have not done the GSR bits, boiler flue etc especially if its for rent , or for that matter anything, if you have done any of these
items of work, get someone in to test it all.

Photo 6 hope you knocked that valve on further onto the tail before you tightened it up, BTW make sure you seal all those gaps where the joists meet
the brickwork between the floors or the carpets will lift up when its windy outside, that is if there is a cavity.

The photo below should tell you the seriousness of DIY, GSR

oldham-gas-explosi_2259432k.jpg


 
Last edited by a moderator:
Hi there Flyer- not to worry about the gas,flue & commissioning side of things. It was all done legitimately by a registered gas engineer.

The house is indeed a bit on the dated side- old electrics & there was no central heating when we moved in. It's a decent sized 3 bed semi which is in need of a bit of modernization- which I'm looking to do the bulk of the work myself, and will not be rented out for the foreseeable future.

Reason I am posting here is to update people that replied to my original questions- always nice to see the final result & no doubt I'll be on here for more questions & guidance in the future.

Please note that I am well aware that there are certain aspects of things that I am not allowed to undertake and will find the necessary professionals to do so.
Thanks for your concern and the reinforcement that you need professionals to do the safety critical side of things.

Ps: I indeed wasted quite a bit of tube trying to get the hang of the bender- hence the all the connectors you see in the pics. I'll try a spring next time.

Pss: picture 6 with all the coupling- the tubes pass underneath a brick wall to the adjacent bedroom & thus required the couplings.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Status
Not open for further replies.

Similar plumbing topics

Replies
0
Views
448
In the end decided to follow Chuck’s advice...
Replies
11
Views
667
Since it became normal for trv's to be bi...
Replies
1
Views
582
Thermostat changed... With the new one, it...
2
Replies
38
Views
1K
Sometimes the connection point of the cylinder...
Replies
3
Views
549
Back
Top