advise on how to carry out a mains flush on my sealed central heating system | Central Heating Forum | Plumbers Forums
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Discuss advise on how to carry out a mains flush on my sealed central heating system in the Central Heating Forum area at Plumbers Forums

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Matt22

Hey can any one give me some advise on how to carry out a mains flush on my sealed central heating system. Can I flush it buy using the filling loop to get clean water through the system? Or do I need to connect a hose to a drain off and flush water in through there. Thanks for any help
 
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Do you intend to circulate some chemical in the system to loosen up sludge etc. prior to the flush?
 
you dont want to do this without isolating the boiler.
is it a new installation?
 
best way is to remove smallest downstairs rad, connect hose to each valve, one to tap,one to grid, isolate flow and return valves under boiler. shut off all rads bar one then slowly open tap to allow water to circulate. when running clear, close off rad and open next one and so on.

a sealed system shouldn't be in need of a flush though really, unless it was a conversion from open vented and flush not done properly then, or at all
 
you best option is

1.call a local plumber
2.do it your self
3.do it your self and then call a plumber to put it right

usually option 1 is the most cost effective way of getting job done
option two is drain down and wash all rads in the the garden ,but watch out for leaks after refitting all rads .
option 3 is what happens usually and cost the most and is stressful to you and your family .
 
Its had some sludge remover put in I have found out by a plumber but he never came back to drain it down so has been runing like this for 6months now. So thought I may need to flush it. If I do as Kay-Jay says do I need to isolate the boiler I have heard this can be the tricky bit as the valves on the boilers can be prone to leaking once turned off is this true?
 
They can do. How old is boiler?

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Drain off and refill a couple of times. Circulate water in between drains.

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Would you reommend that over flushing through a downstairs raditor then? When you say circulate between drains do you mean fire the heating up for say 15-30 mintues. Thanks for the help
 
yes pretty much.

when you first said mains flush i thought it needed a proper flush, a few drains refills and circulations will sort out a bit of sludge remover.
a flush would still be preferable but at least you won't get leaks this way
 
Thanks for the replyings its an S plan i think. Unvented cylinder with a coil through it and a zone valve on the flow as goes in to the cylinder am guessing this valve should remain shut if I flush through the a downstairs raditor my connecting mains through a hose connected to outside tap? Is it a defenate that I need to isolate the flow and return to the boiler? Is there any way around this if there prone to leaking?
 
When you say drain refill and circulate is that what is know as a hot flush? Will most likely do this.
 
Its the only way that will avoid the need to isolate the boiler valves

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Thanks for the replyings its an S plan i think. Unvented cylinder with a coil through it and a zone valve on the flow as goes in to the cylinder am guessing this valve should remain shut if I flush through the a downstairs raditor my connecting mains through a hose connected to outside tap? Is it a defenate that I need to isolate the flow and return to the boiler? Is there any way around this if there prone to leaking?

take my advise you have a s plan with unvented cylinder !

call a experienced engineer who will provide you with competent service , it could end up like option 3 !

List location or go to I need a plumber on the home page !
 
OK thank you. Is it a requirment to isolate the flow and return pipes on the boiler to stop sludge going through the boiler? Would you need to isolate an external pump?
 
Thanks for the link , think I'll try a mains flush as discribed in the link. Am I best off manualy opening the zone valve that goes on the flow as it enters the indirect cylinder before flushing or leave shut?? And do I need to isolate the external pump before I flush? Thanks for all you help has explain alot to me
 
Hi Matt22 :)

I haven't looked at the link but I hope it mentions something about pressure? If you have high mains pressure then you could subject your installation to something it is not use too!!! Radiators do grow to balloons unless a pipe bursts first :) That said though you'll probably be alright as long as you assure a constant flow and keep an eye on the system pressure IMHO!
 
How I carried out a mains system flush

Thanks for the link , think I'll try a mains flush as discribed in the link. Am I best off manualy opening the zone valve that goes on the flow as it enters the indirect cylinder before flushing or leave shut?? And do I need to isolate the external pump before I flush? Thanks for all you help has explain alot to me

I carried out a mains water flush on our un-vented system today. As some of the pipework is very old, I didn't want to have the system power-flushed. I'll outline the steps that I took (bear with me as I have included as much detail as I can remember):


  1. Add Sentinel X800 to the system and circulate for a week. You can use Fernox F5 or other similar chemical to loosen sludge/magnetite.
  2. To allow the chemical to circulate and work: I initially ran the system with all the radiator valves open for 2 days. Then shut all the radiator valves upstairs for 2 days and ran the system. Shut all the radiator valves downstairs and opened the radiator valves previously shut upstairs and ran the system for 2 days. Opened all shut valves and ran the system for a further 2 days. Underfloor heating (in the kitchen) was operated on certain days in between the above radiator valve isolation process.
  3. Today (8 days later) - switched off boiler and drained system. Initally very black water drained out. Then as per the DIYnot guide, isolated the flow and return to the boiler using the service isolation valves (under boiler).
  4. With the boiler and system controls off, manually opened central heating and hot water (cylinder) zone valves.
  5. Connected filling loop and opened both mains cold water and filling isolation valves fully. Monitored pressure gauge on boiler as per DIYnot guide. As expected, no pressure reading (dial on zero) as the flow and return was isolated.
  6. Initially, water from the drain-off was dark in colour and chemical was still present in the system. Once the water ran clear, all the radiator valves were shut off and each radiator valve was opened individually with cold mains water flushing through until it ran clear from the drain-off.
  7. After each radiator had been flushed individually, the mains cold water flow through the filling loop was then reduced. The underfloor heating pump was operated to allow chemical to be flushed through that circuit. The mains cold water pressure was reduced to avoid damaging the pump.
  8. Once the water from the underfloor heating circuit ran clear, the drain-off was closed. With all the radiator valves still closed, the flow and return service isolation valves under the boiler were opened. The system was re-pressurised and the filling loop mains cold water isolation valve closed. The boiler and controls were switched on and the boiler pump operated to allow any remaining chemical in the boiler/pump to be circulated. The drain-off was opened again and the filling loop mains cold water isolation valve was opened slightly to allow the chemical in the boiler to be flushed through. The water from the drain-off was monitored until it ran clear.
  9. All the radiator valves were individually opened and the low-pressure mains cold water from the filling loop allowed to circulate through the boiler/pump and radiators.
  10. Once all the radiator valves were opened and the water from the drain-off ran clear, the drain-off was closed and the system was re-pressurised using the filling loop.
  11. There was a lot of air in the radiators and they had to be bled and the system pressure topped up using the filling loop. Don't forget towel radiators too! There may also be a separate (system) air vent like our's.
  12. Remember to the close the drain-off, all radiator air-vents and shut the filling loop isolation valves and disconnect the filling loop once you are finished.

The only thing I would say is, allow at least a day to do this. I underestimated the time it was going to take and had to cancel meeting up with a friend later in the afternoon!

If you are able to isolate the pump, then it would make the flushing process much easier.

After carrying out the mains flush, I have noticed that some radiators now seem to be extremely hot at the top but cold at the bottom. I haven't come across this scenario before? I have come across radiators cold at the top which is indicative of air in the radiator. Could the flushing have have caused sludge/magnetite to loosen and accumulate at the bottom of the radiators?
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Re: How I carried out a mains system flush

I carried out a mains water flush on our un-vented system today. As some of the pipework is very old, I didn't want to have the system power-flushed. I'll outline the steps that I took (bear with me as I have included as much detail as I can remember):


  1. Add Sentinel X800 to the system and circulate for a week. You can use Fernox F5 or other similar chemical to loosen sludge/magnetite.
  2. To allow the chemical to circulate and work: I initially ran the system with all the radiator valves open for 2 days. Then shut all the radiator valves upstairs for 2 days and ran the system. Shut all the radiator valves downstairs and opened the radiator valves previously shut upstairs and ran the system for 2 days. Opened all shut valves and ran the system for a further 2 days. Underfloor heating (in the kitchen) was operated on certain days in between the above radiator valve isolation process.
  3. Today (8 days later) - switched off boiler and drained system. Initally very black water drained out. Then as per the DIYnot guide, isolated the flow and return to the boiler using the service isolation valves (under boiler).
  4. With the boiler and system controls off, manually opened central heating and hot water (cylinder) zone valves.
  5. Connected filling loop and opened both mains cold water and filling isolation valves fully. Monitored pressure gauge on boiler as per DIYnot guide. As expected, no pressure reading (dial on zero) as the flow and return was isolated.
  6. Initially, water from the drain-off was dark in colour and chemical was still present in the system. Once the water ran clear, all the radiator valves were shut off and each radiator valve was opened individually with cold mains water flushing through until it ran clear from the drain-off.
  7. After each radiator had been flushed individually, the mains cold water flow through the filling loop was then reduced. The underfloor heating pump was operated to allow chemical to be flushed through that circuit. The mains cold water pressure was reduced to avoid damaging the pump.
  8. Once the water from the underfloor heating circuit ran clear, the drain-off was closed. With all the radiator valves still closed, the flow and return service isolation valves under the boiler were opened. The system was re-pressurised and the filling loop mains cold water isolation valve closed. The boiler and controls were switched on and the boiler pump operated to allow any remaining chemical in the boiler/pump to be circulated. The drain-off was opened again and the filling loop mains cold water isolation valve was opened slightly to allow the chemical in the boiler to be flushed through. The water from the drain-off was monitored until it ran clear.
  9. All the radiator valves were individually opened and the low-pressure mains cold water from the filling loop allowed to circulate through the boiler/pump and radiators.
  10. Once all the radiator valves were opened and the water from the drain-off ran clear, the drain-off was closed and the system was re-pressurised using the filling loop.
  11. There was a lot of air in the radiators and they had to be bled and the system pressure topped up using the filling loop. Don't forget towel radiators too! There may also be a separate (system) air vent like our's.
  12. Remember to the close the drain-off, all radiator air-vents and shut the filling loop isolation valves and disconnect the filling loop once you are finished.

The only thing I would say is, allow at least a day to do this. I underestimated the time it was going to take and had to cancel meeting up with a friend later in the afternoon!

If you are able to isolate the pump, then it would make the flushing process much easier.

After carrying out the mains flush, I have noticed that some radiators now seem to be extremely hot at the top but cold at the bottom. I haven't come across this scenario before? I have come across radiators cold at the top which is indicative of air in the radiator. Could the flushing have have caused sludge/magnetite to loosen and accumulate at the bottom of the radiators?

isn't that essentially what i said days ago??

cold spots at bottom indicate blockages, is your pipework microbore? as this can be hard to flush. would have helped to give the rads a bit of a whack with a rubber mallet to dislodge any build up of deposits during flush......hope you have not pumped any of this crap round the ufh......
 
Re: How I carried out a mains system flush

cold spots at bottom indicate blockages, is your pipework microbore? as this can be hard to flush

What is microbore? As far as I'm aware the whole system is plumbed using 15/22mm copper pipe except the underfloor heating circuit.
 
Microbore is 8 or 10mm pipework. Sometimes just used on radiator tails, sometimes used loads undetermined floors.

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