Air lock in Domestic water

[alfaz.di.pi]

In 2013 we had a problem with our domestic hot water, the plumber came and informed us it was an airlock that was formed because an out flow pipe from the hot water tank was running down slightly to where it connected to the vent pipe. To relieve the airlock, he released the nut that joined the pipe to the tank and the trapped air was expelled, and the problem solved. This also happened again just recently, and again the plumer came and relieved the trapped air and fixed the problem. This time I asked about having the pipework altered so that the air would be able to expel by itself and save all the trouble of calling out a plumber every three years. It would involve cutting out the t piece and fitting extra parts of pipework so the offending pipe would be raised slightly to allow any trapped air to expel into the vent pipe. He suggested fitting a release valve, similar to a radiator bleed valve, on the pipe as near to where it joins to the tanks as possible, then I could open it myself to release the air.

The Boiler is a Potterton Kingfisher CF 40, ( which causes no problem, and serviced every year) Pumped for heating and gravity fed domestic.
The tank was originally in the loft ( we have a bungalow) but when we had the loft converted for bedroom and bathroom etc the tank was lifted higher, and I can only assume the fitters did not notice that the pipe was falling down slightly.

My question is? Would this work all right, and even if it did, would it not be better to alter the pipework, so that the air was released through the vent normally. They have to drain the system anyway.
Thanks In advance
Albert

 

[Best]

I would have thought altering the pipework would be more sensible.
Air will constantly gather if you don't and the vent pipe is supposed to be for allowing expansion, plus air in and out, so needs to be level or rising to the tee.
Maybe your plumber thinks it is easier to fit a manual vent, but he shouldn't do that.
No need to drain entire cylinder, - just turn water off from cold tank that goes to feed the cylinder at its base and turn a hot tap on to leave hot pipes from top of cylinder empty

 

[ShaunCorbs]

Change the Pipework don't install a bleed point instead, do it right first time

 

[Best]

Can't be much more than one tee and one or two connectors and short bit of copper pipe needed I would think.

 

[kozak1968]

Maybe the plumber was thinking about keeping the cost down. But changing the pipework would be a more long term solution.

 

[ShaunCorbs]

Can't be much more than one tee and one or two connectors and short bit of copper pipe needed I would think.

Even if it isn't doesn't really matter for a decent plumber

 

[alfaz.di.pi]

I'm pleased to see that you all agreed with my thinking, and thank you all for the answers. I will be getting it corrected when the warmer weather comes and we stop using the CH. I must now see about quotes to get it altered, as it has been said it is a new T, a couple of joiners, and a piece of pipe I would think.
Regards
Albert