Balanced flue boiler swaps

[Ian10261]

I'm sure most if not all GSR engineers on here have had this but i'm just wondering how everyone gets round the situation quickly. You've just removed an old balanced flue boiler and you now have a large gaping hole in the wall. Every so often the law of averages catches up with you and where you want to drill a hole to secure the new mounting jig is occupied by thin air. Not a problem if you have the time to brick up the hole and come back a couple of days later when its solid enough, i've always been lucky enough to get round it by using extra long frame fixings into the brickwork at an angle so as to miss the hole and get a really good fixing. Just wondering if anyone has any other bright idea's ??

 

[quality]

Had the same problem many times but I am no bright spark with any bright ideas hence brick it up and return

 

[unguided1]

brick up the hole then put a sheet of ply or chipboard over the whole area with fireproof board over the top

 

[bob the plumber]

no way round it, fact is it needs filling. I usually hang the new boiler a fraction lower to get a fix then put the new flue in place and patch up round it asap.

 

[quality]

brick up the hole then put a sheet of ply or chipboard over the whole area with fireproof board over the top

Good idea but not always possible as you know

 

[cdodds2004]

no way round it, fact is it needs filling. I usually hang the new boiler a fraction lower to get a fix then put the new flue in place and patch up round it asap.

i do this or move the boiler left or right slightly or just brick up board up then mount to the board! worcester even state they can be mounted to mdf etc now!

all in all sometimes a bit awkard but when there is a will there is a way, i only ever told my old boss i couldnt do a job once, he said no worries ill send some one that can, so now i always find a way even if it takes longer etc always a way

 

[stevetheplumber]

two day job put some finish in the motar helps it set quicker

 

[SimonJohns]

I tend to keep the end of the balanced flue and stick it back over the hole once filled (not on brick work)

Tends to not look so out of place on a rendered wall

And I mean just the end. The finished look is flush

 

[armourer]

I use a medium density breeze block (internally), cut the block to size with a wood saw and fix in place with quick setting cement.

Bimble off and do something else and 30 minutes later its strong enough to core and fix.

If you recess it slightly you can just plaster skim over at the end.

 

[gasmarc]

i do as above thermalite block and some prompt quick set , I have never had to come back the next day

 

[cdodds2004]

quick dry cement is a life saver in these situations

 

[Ian10261]

Never thought of quick dry cement brefore, dohh!!! Anyway, didn't need it this week, the mounting jig holes fell nicely outside of the void.....happy days. Rest of the jobs been a right PIA though.

 

[gasmarc]

yes nothing worse than turning up and having an issue fixing a boiler to fresh air LOL quick drying cement does the business

 

[GasmanxxxR1]

Measure the hole and mark out on a thermalite block. Cut one of the ends square and one of the ends at an angle. Make a mix of sand and cement with two big handfulls of of plaster in there (poor mans quick dried cement) Place square edge of block in hole and gently hit the other end in with a hammer, this in effect wedges the block in aloowing you to hang the boiler, obviously use the mrtar mix at top and bottom and whereever else there is a gap.

I have to do this a lot and it has never let me down, after a while you get the hang of it. Use a woodsaw to cut the block, you can even cut a hole for the flue if needs be

 

[Ian10261]

Spot on mate, a simple solution but the best ones usually are. Cheers

 

[GasmanxxxR1]

No worries mate

 

[Steve @ TheHeatingHub]

I've been know to hang boilers on sanitary rawrplugs if you need to get a fixing on a ****ty wall, vaillant jigs have little tiny screw holes that are ideal for this.

But back to you main point, jetcem and an brezze block works wonders(like already stated), I tend to get that hole rendered then crack on getting the scarp out while it goes off.

 

[unguided1]

on my 3 day trainning course we were told to gripfill the boiler to the wall and and then the flue would hold the boiler when the cement goes off I have also found that if I use a couple of pipe clips on my pipework this will also help the boiler stay in position

 

[Kev the gas]

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

As above, I thought double sided tape was produced for this installation problum !:mad2:

 

[gasmarc]

O MY GOD did someone actually mention using gripfill , what next I suppose velcro tape holding the boiler to the wall and the pipe clips and flue for extra support ,

 

[SafeGasInstall]

brick up the hole then put a sheet of ply or chipboard over the whole area with fireproof board over the top

that is what I would do

 

[gasmarc]

i never do that as it is time consuming and a waste of materials also it brings the boiler out further by an inch

 

[SafeGasInstall]

Obviously is all down to where boiler is located !

 

[quality]

Obviously is all down to where boiler is located !

Just as posted before is a good method but not always possible