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Discuss Bath Seal Failure - Help! in the Plumbing Jobs | The Job-board area at Plumbers Forums

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cr0ft

Plumbers Arms member
Plumber
Gas Engineer
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Hi all,

I'm not new to installing bathrooms, but this one has stumped me. The customer has asked for bath edging strips to be put in on the install, which I've done (first time I've installed them). They are Homelux interior tile trims, but their brochure says they are fine to use on bath edge seals.

I installed the bath in accordance with the installation manual, i.e all 5 legs adjusted level, screw front legs to floor, bath to wall etc. I filled the bath nearly full and then sealed between the tile trims and the bath.

A week later, the customer has called me and said that they got in the bath for a shower today and at both the short ends of the bath the seal has just ripped away.

I'm at a loss, I think I've done everything correctly. Can someone advise me on what to do before I handle this one tonight? I have my own thoughts but am keen to hear others.

Thanks!
 
dont use edgings there crap, rip out and seal with quality mastic.
check the middle leg under bath too, as it sounds like the bath has moved or curled like a bannana, is the customer fat?. or active with 2 in at a time?.
 
Thanks for the advice. They're slightly overweight I would say, but not hideously obese. They asked for the bath panel to be sealed to the walls and floor too (don't go there, the customer is always right, even when you advise them it will rip very quickly). I'ld prefer not to have to remove it unless I need to. I think the first port of call is reseal it and if it happens again then go down the route you mention. Pulling out the edging strips will mean removing the bottom row of tiles and recutting them all - I really hope that isn't necessary :(
 
What I have seen done to stop the bath moving, and that is to set the bath up first then mark the bottom edge of the bath, along the wall side/s, remove the bath, then fit a timber batten, about 75mm x 50mm to the mark, so that when the bath goes back it will rest on the timber batten, just prior to fitting the bath back in place, plenty of silicone sealant was applied to the timber batten, and the bath was bedded into the sealant, with any protruding sealant "flushed off" level with the top of the bath edge
 
Hi! Plouasne,

That is my favored way as well, plus a couple of joist ends under the bottom and all wall retaining brackets screwed on as well.

Bit slow but does tend to cut down on call back's.
Those behind the bath edge strips seem to gather all kinds of dirt after a while.
 
Yep I allways batten it out and never use them useless salmonella strips.
 
Bernie,

Another thing that's done this side of the water, and that is the front and side/s of the bath are built up solid, with just an access to get at the trap, with either waterproofed plaster blocks, or terra cotta blocks, and then tiled as a finish, the bugger cannot move then, not even with two whales trying to do the tango in the bath:D
 
Battens are the best way to fit a bath makes leveling it a doddle as well if the battens are leveled
 
Will definitely be using battens from now on, this callback has the potential to be a real pain in the rear end!
 
Yes, the problem was definatly a flimsy install. The two L shaped 'tin foil' brackets are not enough to hold a bath in place. Fixing baths in properly is my speciality, I go way over the top and batton to *******. I support the front edge with vertical timbers, screw down ALL four legs on BOTH holes (yes even the back ones) use plenty of silicone to glue/seal the bath to the wall and then I'll get two peices of 4X2 and chisel them out so that when I screw them into the wall they force the bath against the wall.

I then fill with water overnight, next morning I stand in it and sit on the edge if there's any movement (there never is!!) I'd strengthen some more.


I get regular jobs fixing poorly installed and rushed baths usually they leak through the ceiling down the back edge.
 
nice one phil,
but i dont think i could spend 2 days just installing a bath.
 
You cannot beat a cast iron or a fireclay bath, fit 'em and forget 'em, mind you they can be pigs to fit especially those with an integral front and end; all cast in one, the only thing that can be wrong is if the bath is twisted in casting, I spent 3 hours trying to get both front and back edge level, turned out that the bath was twisted and had to be replaced, that lost me my bonus for that bath
 
Some of the first Acrylic baths that came out where set in a complete wooden frame as well as legs. So movement has probably been a problem from day one.

As Plouasne says, fit cast and it won't move very often.

The thing is of course it ain't half cold and makes the water go cold very quick. But they are solid :) :)
 
Well, it turns out that part of the reason is the bath is a crap B&Q bath. When the side of the bath is pressed from underneath it visibly flexes!! Never seen a bath so flimsy. That said, I've tinkered around as Paul said and the install seems to be much better now. Never installing B&Q products again,so fed up with them.
 
Well, it turns out that part of the reason is the bath is a crap B&Q bath. When the side of the bath is pressed from underneath it visibly flexes!! Never seen a bath so flimsy. That said, I've tinkered around as Paul said and the install seems to be much better now. Never installing B&Q products again,so fed up with them.
LOL! to be fair to B and Q thier stuff has improved dramaticly over the years.
You still cant beat one of those £180 shell effect bathroom suites, bristling with quality!:D.
 
LOL! to be fair to B and Q thier stuff has improved dramaticly over the years.
You still cant beat one of those £180 shell effect bathroom suites, bristling with quality!:D.
what the ones where the lever arm either hits the lid or it doesnt flush and you need feeler gauges to get the ball to sit in the right places so it doesnt stick on the cysten or the syphon
only good thing is i often get the job of sorting it when the diyers give up
 
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