baxi 105e problems

[craigymac]

hello everyone, i am hoping someone can assist me with the follwing problem:

I have a baxi 105e combi and the story begins.............

1) Little or no heat to radiators
2) Hot water to taps ok

I was told that I needed a new pump fitted which should sort my problem, £100 later no difference. I was then told that I needed the system flushing, £300 later and we have heat to the radiators which is great but I have another problem, if the central heating is on and I turn the taps on at the same time the boiler cuts out pretty much straight away it then reignites and keeps cutting out? I have looked at the pins coming out of the diverter valve and they both seem to be touching the microswitches? If I turn the hot water supply off to the boiler (underneath) The boiler stays on constantly and the CH is fine, as soon as I open the hot water valve up the boiler cuts out again! Anyone got any ideas or seen this before???? PS I am not a plumber but a bit sick of this now. Thanks in advance and sorry if the above doesnt make any sense.

 

[world9563]

Hi

My advise m8 would be to get someone in to do repair as they no what they are doing(not that your stupid) but i had a m8 who did is own repairs he had gone and spent over 300 when it would of cost him no more than 100 to sort it out.

kind regards

 

[diamondgas]

Do you know how dirty the system was when they flushed it out craigymac? Initially sounds like a hot water sensor fault or the plate heatexchanger is full of the kind of crud a flush wont shift.... On hot water only, if you turn the hot tap on do you see the lights on the front rise rapidly to 80 then the boiler cut out, reignite and do exactly the same ... whilst the hot water temp not staying constant?

 

[craigymac]

Hi Diamondgas, this is exactly what happens! do you think its the heat exchanger and not the diverter valve? thanks craig

 

[diamondgas]

Hi Diamondgas, this is exactly what happens! do you think its the heat exchanger and not the diverter valve? thanks craig

When testing its better to rule out the least expensive part first, i.e. the sensor, by checking resistance through it or simply replacing it! They're about a tenner! You're then faced with a flow issue through the hot water circuit. Unlikely to be diverter but not impossible, unlikely to be the return manifold but not impossible ... unlikely to be a good few other pipes etc on the circuit but not impossible ... You're faced with the most likely cause which is a blocked plate heat exchanger.... It isn't an exact science unfortunately but the symptoms you describe point in that direction. IMO

 

[craigymac]

Thanks for the reply Steve, which sensor are you talking about? Chers Craig

 

[diamondgas]

Thanks for the reply Steve, which sensor are you talking about? Chers Craig

I'd be checking both to be honest. How confident are you working with water and electrics though, and recognising components. Or are you looking at getting someone in? You have a real chance of doing more damage than good if you're not confident

 

[craigymac]

I will be getting someone back in to get it sorted, I am just curious to know which sensors you are talking about? I dont even recall seeing one in there never mind 2! I will stick to printing stuff and leave this work up to you guys!

 

[diamondgas]

I will be getting someone back in to get it sorted, I am just curious to know which sensors you are talking about? I dont even recall seeing one in there never mind 2! I will stick to printing stuff and leave this work up to you guys!

Just wanted to put in that little warning regards DIY craigymac ... Better safe than sorry

Put your general wherabouts up here and you might strike lucky

 

[desrob]

Just wanted to put in that little warning regards DIY craigymac ... Better safe than sorry

Put your general wherabouts up here and you might strike lucky

i have a feeling this guy wants to chance his luck,but you never know...?