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JAH HEATING

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Gas Engineer
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Baxi Duotech 28 E133 Fault[/h]
Went out to this job last week, boiler wasn't lighting

Checked I was getting power to the Ignition Board (I Was) and couldn't hear an noise of a spark

Replaced the board and the HT leads, boiler started working

However, they called me back to say the same fault is occuring ???

It sounded to me that the igniotion was on the lead to me, shorting so I replaced it and it fired up

Tried again and then it stopped ?

The ignition / ticking noise seems to be coming from the ignition box itself which is new ??

Tested for voltage at the igniton board, am getting 120 which within a few seconds goes to 240 ? Does it have a transformer I take it ?

Anyway, the boiler is failing to light and it's had me scratching my head


Any help would be appreciated, thanks​



Gasman is this now in correct forum ? Am sure I have gave my gsr details in the past ?

Read more: http://www.ukplumbersforums.co.uk/c...baxi-duotech-28-e133-fault.html#ixzz2Cu5wV654
 

E133 is relating to ignition lockout : after basic gas / electric checks, check the compensation tube to the gas valve, it can kink when front panel is up causing no gas from air gas ratio valve on ignition: re-route or shorten tube to resolve. Check the electrode gap and for any carbon build up on probes - probes can bend towards burner after a period causing delayed ignition or ignition lockout.
 
E133 is relating to ignition lockout : after basic gas / electric checks, check the compensation tube to the gas valve, it can kink when front panel is up causing no gas from air gas ratio valve on ignition: re-route or shorten tube to resolve. Check the electrode gap and for any carbon build up on probes - probes can bend towards burner after a period causing delayed ignition or ignition lockout.


Much appreciated
 
No problem mate.
You jinxed me, I've just walked into a job on a Duo-Tec with that exact same problem. Lol
 
I just knocked off gas, removed electrode, held with insulated pliers, started ignition sequence, had a weak spark. Adjusted electrode gap to 4mm, now working fine. :)
 
Can we get this moved to the GSR Private forum? Too much info!!
 
Isn't this a private forum? How can you tell what's a private forum and what's not a private forum?
I'm on my phone via tapatalk.
 
no this is the forum open to all,the private section is the gas safe plumbers
 
95% of the time, if the boiler was made before 09 (the first 2 numbers on the serial number) the very first thing I would do is check the ignition electrodes. 2 3mm?? allen bolts to take them out. They can go either too close or too far away from each other. Bend them back (very carefully) and to stop a repeat visit in 6-12 months time, order in the revised part. They began fitting these after 2009 and are 100 times better than the old ones.

If that isn't the issue, check the inlet pressure on ignition. They don't really like anything less than 16 mbar, but you should be getting more than that anyway.
 
95% of the time, if the boiler was made before 09 (the first 2 numbers on the serial number) the very first thing I would do is check the ignition electrodes. 2 3mm?? allen bolts to take them out. They can go either too close or too far away from each other. Bend them back (very carefully) and to stop a repeat visit in 6-12 months time, order in the revised part. They began fitting these after 2009 and are 100 times better than the old ones.

If that isn't the issue, check the inlet pressure on ignition. They don't really like anything less than 16 mbar, but you should be getting more than that anyway.
spot on arran,agree100%
 
silly one but make sure your connections are on properly i had another boiler where the lead felt like it was on the terminal but was actualy sparking across at that end inside the box
 
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