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JE-P&H

Gas Engineer
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After a bit of advice this boiler has really thrown me.

Called to a Baxi Solo He 18 that the customer would have to reset 5 times + for the boiler to stay lit it seemed to be lighting for literally a second then going out.

I stripped it down expecting an electrode fault but nothing noticeably wrong with the boiler except the red combustion door seal was damaged so replaced that also replaced the electrodes as I had a spare set on the van.

Now I cant even get the boiler to light for a second I can hear it sparking but it will go through 5 cycles fail to ignite and go to lockout. I can smell gas in the chamber afterwards so assume the gas valve is letting it through but not lighting? OP is also correct at 19mb

Anyone experienced a similar fault or have any ideas I'm at a loss and considering changing the gas valve??
Any help would be much appreciated!
 
these can have a bad seal on the burner and they updated it to ceramic i think even they can break their seal other than that are you getting correct voltage at gas valve
 
thanks for the reply the burner looks ok to me anything in particular I should be looking for? What voltage should I be looking for on the gas valve Baxi technical were no help when I asked for the voltages! Is the seal that attaches the burner to the fan ever a problem?
 
The burner I had a problem with you could almost lift the ceramic out of the metal box
 
Checked the burner all good but made some progress! Found if I slightly block the venturi boiler fires up straight away and then if I take it away it stay lit! So think I'm looking at Gas/Air mix. tested the Gas valve 4.5k resistance the voltage is down slightly at 220vdc manual says 240vdc is this low enough to cause a problem?
 
Your probably on the right track with the gas valve. Probably not giving the correct mix to ignite. If it's got 220v on it, it should be opening, but you don't know what's happening inside.

On a side note, each time I have had this problem there has been water leakage on RHS into the little copper tube which goes to the gas valve.
 
Your probably on the right track with the gas valve. Probably not giving the correct mix to ignite. If it's got 220v on it, it should be opening, but you don't know what's happening inside.

On a side note, each time I have had this problem there has been water leakage on RHS into the little copper tube which goes to the gas valve.
 
It looked like there has been water on the right hand side possibly condensate blockage could that effect the copper tube is it just a case of blowing it through? 220vdc is enough to open it fully then so unlikely to be PCB?
 
had problems with solo gas valves in the past, and from what I remember they are not cheep
 
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