Belfast sink jig angle

[Bogart]

Might be off target posting here buy here goes. All the jigs I see to route out the worktop for a Belfast/Butler type sink have an internal radius of 25mm. I find this odd as the internal radius of the one have I removed and the replacement have an internal radius of half this, as do all those I have measured in the shops. Am loathe to spend £50 plus on a jig for a one off use
if I can cobble up something myself.

 

[S.P.S.]

Make one, 12mm mdf, match the corner radius with the corresponding hole saw, use a track saw or circ saw against a straight edge to cut between the hole edges. Sand to finish. Remember your adding 9mm as the offset form the guide bush.

Easy. Done plenty of Belfast’s, I don’t like the factory jigs. Although the drainer groove jig is a must.

Stu

 

[S.P.S.]

Oh and answering your original question, the internal radius of 25mm won’t give a finished internal radius of 25mm, it will pretty much be the radius of the cutter only (12.7mm) because he cutter is offset 9mm by the guide bush

 

[firemant]

Totally off topic, but why has the Belfast sink made a return? They were being ripped out not so long ago and used as flower beds. Best place for them, IMO.

 

[S.P.S.]

@firemant Resurgence in traditional style! The sinks are great, when installed properly......! Very deep and sturdy. You wont see many stainless sinks sat in a garden as a flower pot!

Think of all the traditional style bathrooms and decor going in....! Shaker style bathrooms/kitchens are a massive thing again as well.

Also I suspect because people have realised stainless steel sinks look naff!

 

[Bogart]

Never thought of the jig having an allowance for the radius. As you say must be easy to cobble one up using 2 holes of the radius of the sink and cutting between. Pop in a drip groove using a router. Now am not sure how this drip groove works as most people suggest using mastic between the underside of the worktop and the top of the sink.

 

[S.P.S.]

Worktop Over hangs by 15mm, drip groove done with a 6mm radius grove cutter 5 mm in from edge, then silicone goes in the remaining 4-5mm. All approx. If you don’t drop groove, youl get a trashed worktop.

Also don’t use danish oil, use OSMO polyx or OSMO topoil

 

[Bogart]

Am going to use Woca oil. A final thought does one set the worktop into some sort of mastic, original was on brick piers laid onto a mortar bead? This one though will be sitting on a plywood base, even though it is damn heavy I think it could still slide around.

 

[S.P.S.]

Screw it down drill a 10mm hole in the carcass/ply, pilot hole into the worktop then use a penny wash and lightly screw it up. It needs to be able to expand and contract, silicone the back gap to the wall. Then silicone underside of the sink

 

[Bogart]

Must have been having a moment I meant do I set the sink in some mastic bed.

 

[S.P.S.]

it wont need anything mate, just its weight will hold it then the silicone round the top will stop it going anywhere.

 

[Bogart]

Great that how I will do it then. Thanks