Best method and toolsfor lifting large sections of solid board flooring?

[WaterTight]

And pitfalls and perils to guard against ....


I'm guessing circular saw set to correct depth carefully cut across joists and fix noggin to joists by cuts when replacing for extra support?

 

[WaterTight]

*along joists

 

[WaterTight]

*well, both

 

[Leo21]

The secret is a nail punch. It stops the board cracking whileifting. Multi tools are good for small and awkward areas.

 

[WaterTight]

can you explain that leo, can't quite get what you mean

 

[Leo21]

First cut round with circ saw. Drive all nails through with a nail punch. This means the board should lift with little or no resistance. The nails are some times 3 inch ring nails, if you don't drive them through the board just snaps. The multi tool gets into tight spaces where your circ saw can't. I assume were talking about large sheet wayrock type flooring.

 

[Mike Jackson]

Be wary when lifting plywood floors. There are some constructions when the flooring is an integral part of the structure.

 

[secret squirrel]

Be careful. After setting saw to the correct depth don't put any pressure downwards as this will nick the pipe thats resting on the floorboard......OOPS!

 

[Barry98]

drain system , turn electric off , then go hell for leather with a rip saw. no pusy footing about get on with it

 

[secret squirrel]

drain system , turn electric off , then go hell for leather with a rip saw. no pusy footing about get on with it

I'm too much of a wimp for going hell for leather....

 

[Guest123]

Get a joiner to do it so you can blame him for cutting through pipes and all the damage caused.

 

[Mike Jackson]

Run the pipes on top of the floor and screed it afterwards.

 

[GQuigley67]

best method would be pay a joiner to do it haha

 

[WaterTight]

Well I haven't got a circular saw and money is short at the moment so I might get a joiner in, watch how he does it and learn what to do next time. All I need lifting is a section in front of a rad and then a channel for two pipes across the room. Two questions:

1) How much roughly would you expect a joiner to charge for that? I'm guessing an hour's money.

2) Can you lift out two-floorboard-width sections or will that weaken it too much? It just chipboard by looks of it but in good nick.

 

[kirkgas]

Well I haven't got a circular saw and money is short at the moment so I might get a joiner in, watch how he does it and learn what to do next time. All I need lifting is a section in front of a rad and then a channel for two pipes across the room. Two questions:

1) How much roughly would you expect a joiner to charge for that? I'm guessing an hour's money.

2) Can you lift out two-floorboard-width sections or will that weaken it too much? It just chipboard by looks of it but in good nick.

when our joiners did this they always replaced the 2 pipe channel with plywood, rather than the chipboard going back down, 2 reasons, 1) it means its quicker to lift the chipboard as its not going back down and 2) its stronger than a narrow chipboard strip, down side is you need to buy ply, but they used to rip it and use the new ply as a template for the cut which made it quicker to get the job done, i would never do a job like this myself as i would rather set it out for him, then get on with altering the pipes, while i test and refill he can start getting organised for the refit so the total job time is cut, time and cost to do the job depends on how much work you need done

 

[stevetheplumber]

i always support the edges when it goes back with strips of ply or 3x1

 

[Leo21]

i always support the edges when it goes back with strips of ply or 3x1

Same ad me then, and no joiner bils to pay.