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Hall way
 
Also neck height no higher or lower. Is that meant to be right? Can't remember the reason why. But somebody said to me once 'where you would wear a scalf to keep you warm' and it stuck in my mind.
 
Also neck height no higher or lower. Is that meant to be right? Can't remember the reason why. But somebody said to me once 'where you would wear a scalf to keep you warm' and it stuck in my mind.

1.5m off the floor unless it's for a disabled customer then set height that is best for them
 
1.5m off the floor unless it's for a disabled customer then set height that is best for them
Is it just more to do with access then? I was lead to believe at the time it was kinda the height you wanted to monitor the temperature.
 
Is it just more to do with access then? I was lead to believe at the time it was kinda the height you wanted to monitor the temperature.

Yes gives the best accuracy and best of both words bottom not to cold and top not to hot etc
 
I was in a house last week where the guys wireless roomstat was screwed to his kitchen wall near the oven so when he cooked his tea his heating cut off as stat came up to temp , crazy , lucky it was simple case of unscrewing back plate and left it loose for him to try different locations,
 
I need to get more techie with this heating lark. I'm nearly always in the house so the things that turn the heating on when you're on the way home won't work for me.

But the times I'm too hot in the bedroom (not in the nice way) yet it's too cold in the living rooms etc is way too often.

What would i need to regulate the rooms better?
 
Depends what's System you got already ?

Do you have trv on your rads if not get some installed

Also do you have a thermostat
 
But if you have the thermostat fitted in the hallway make sure you do not put a TRV on the radiator in the hall. It needs to be 2 X lockshield valves
 
1.5 m from the floor, we all know heat rises so this is meant to be the ideal height for sensing the room temp for an average adult height. Too high up and its a bit warmer and too low down its a bit cooler. Keep it away from opening doors, windows, drafts and any heat sources. The amount of time I've seen them next to a radiator is ridiculous. Hallway or landing is my preference and No TRV in the same room as the room stat is a must.
 
For a system controlled by a single thermostat to work reasonably it needs to be in a position that cools and heats at roughly the same average rate as the occupied rooms and is not affected by local influences such as point sources of heat, windows/doors being openened, direct sun-light etc. The downstairs hall, preferably near the centre of the house, is a the usual choice. A living room can work okay provided it is not 'sunny' and secondary sources of heat, such as a wood-burner or radiant electric fire are not used, etc. Unfortunately, these constraints usually rule out living rooms.

C.
 
But the times I'm too hot in the bedroom (not in the nice way) yet it's too cold in the living rooms etc is way too often.

What would i need to regulate the rooms better?

Thoughtful and careful balancing is probably the thing to try first and it can work wonders. This is particularly effective if it's your own house so you can take your time and try various approaches to see which works best.

Making the top floor a separate zone works well but only if you get the controls right. The trap to avoid is that the bedroom zone often requires very little power (as you say, your's is too hot) which means that if it is not synchronised with the downstairs zone you'll get boiler short-cycling when the bedroom zone is on but the rest of the house is off. I would put the zone programmer/thermostat in the master bedroom because a landing position will probably be too heavily influenced by heat rising from the ground floor zone.

Short-cycling is really annoying for bedroom zones because of the expansion/contraction noise which works as a pretty effective alarm clock. So be prepared to take up a few floorboards and get to work with the hessian wrap.

C.
 
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