H
Halligat1
Boiler make and model: Worcester Greenstar 28i Junior (this has the old style mechanical timer (new))
Central heating thermostat make and model: DT92E Wireless Digital Thermostat
Under floor heating (kitchen) thermostat make and model: Siemens RCU10
Issue: would like better control over heating (especially kitchen under floor heating)
Kitchen: has the above electromechanical thermostat, with 2 wires (L and N). Main issue is control......ie; if current temperature is 12c and required temperature is set to 19c.....this will activate the ZONE VALVE to on (you can hear it and it starts to warm up). Boiler is set to timed control ie; on from 06:00hrs - 07:30hrs ......and 16:40hrs - 22:00hrs.
Q. Why should the ZONE VALVE be OPEN (ie; from 22.00hrs to 06.00hrs, using electricity when not needed (I guess the cost would be minimal) but more importantly i believe will reduce the life expectancy of the valve.
Q. On a few occasions I have also found where the temperature has been met on the thermostat, the ZONE VALVE makes a racket (loud humming / rattling noise valve doesn’t appear to be a branded make like the central heating valve which is a honeywell) once I adjust the thermostat to a temperature below whats been registered on the thermostat the 'click' is heard and the valve stops (so CLOSED).....is this a fault with the thermostat or valve?
I'm trying to get my head around the best way a central heating system should work (I know every home is different) is it best to have the heating come on several times a day. At the moment our main headache is the under floor heating for the kitchen, is there a better solution?
Note: our kitchen is open plan to the downstairs dining room/living room (we are considering installing a door to keep the kitchen separate from these two rooms)
Note: apprx one year ago we had an issue with the thermostat in the kitchen which was a ( 3 wired) drayton model (when the thermostat switch went to CALL this then tripped out the electric consumer unit), plumber visited and changed it for above Siemens version which didn’t make any difference, to cut a long story short we had an electrician visit who found one of the wires was shorting, he was able to use one of the other wires available instead of re installing a new cable which would have been a headache….hence we now only have 2 wires….phewwwwww….sorry to go on here !!!!!!!
any advice or pointers would be very much appreciated.
cheers
Tony
Central heating thermostat make and model: DT92E Wireless Digital Thermostat
Under floor heating (kitchen) thermostat make and model: Siemens RCU10
Issue: would like better control over heating (especially kitchen under floor heating)
Kitchen: has the above electromechanical thermostat, with 2 wires (L and N). Main issue is control......ie; if current temperature is 12c and required temperature is set to 19c.....this will activate the ZONE VALVE to on (you can hear it and it starts to warm up). Boiler is set to timed control ie; on from 06:00hrs - 07:30hrs ......and 16:40hrs - 22:00hrs.
Q. Why should the ZONE VALVE be OPEN (ie; from 22.00hrs to 06.00hrs, using electricity when not needed (I guess the cost would be minimal) but more importantly i believe will reduce the life expectancy of the valve.
Q. On a few occasions I have also found where the temperature has been met on the thermostat, the ZONE VALVE makes a racket (loud humming / rattling noise valve doesn’t appear to be a branded make like the central heating valve which is a honeywell) once I adjust the thermostat to a temperature below whats been registered on the thermostat the 'click' is heard and the valve stops (so CLOSED).....is this a fault with the thermostat or valve?
I'm trying to get my head around the best way a central heating system should work (I know every home is different) is it best to have the heating come on several times a day. At the moment our main headache is the under floor heating for the kitchen, is there a better solution?
Note: our kitchen is open plan to the downstairs dining room/living room (we are considering installing a door to keep the kitchen separate from these two rooms)
Note: apprx one year ago we had an issue with the thermostat in the kitchen which was a ( 3 wired) drayton model (when the thermostat switch went to CALL this then tripped out the electric consumer unit), plumber visited and changed it for above Siemens version which didn’t make any difference, to cut a long story short we had an electrician visit who found one of the wires was shorting, he was able to use one of the other wires available instead of re installing a new cable which would have been a headache….hence we now only have 2 wires….phewwwwww….sorry to go on here !!!!!!!
any advice or pointers would be very much appreciated.
cheers
Tony
