Vented system, Worcester Bosch 30CDi, NEST control.
Radiators not getting hot, or takes hours.
Wanted to ask if below is a good indicator of a technical problem, rather than looking for blockages etc etc.
The boiler is cycling from 45 degrees, climbing quickly (a degree a second) to 50 where it alternates between the temp & H -¦-. Gets to 80 degree's & stops firing, quickly drops to 45 degree's, fires again & repeats all in the space of a few minutes, mostly allowing for cool down.
The return pipe is luke warm, even when the display says 80 degrees.
On the most base level, Is this incorrect?
I assume this is meant to be the return temp or is the display something else.
If not normal behavier (i.e. temp & pipe not similar) either the Boiler has developed a fault or as below...
.. 2 years ago had NEST installed to replace standard stat. Was a "NEST engineer" but I think had no idea as was messing with wiring inside the boiler! I said to him sure he only needed a relative simple rewire & did not need the case off, I had read the instructions. In the end the boiler was going bonkers. He went away & sent a friend who I assumed fixed but ever since not great but to be honest is a warm house and was in the summer so come winter & not great but just OK.
Revisiting now & just think not correct.
The flow out is super hot & the pump is working, just changed thinking it might have been that but no better.
HW gets hot but pipe close and I image flow & return helps.
3 port value works fine, moves to select the correct flow direction.
Does this cycling on HW only, CH only & both.
Most obvious on CH only as flow pipe v.hot & return tepid.
With HW on I think as pipe close natural return does get bit hotter.
I imagine could do with better balancing, checking for trapped air & even power flush but just think this is wrong.
Could there there be another explanation for high temp reading & cold return.
If there were a blockage on flow would the boiler show high temp, typing this I guess there would be some fail safe to stop overheating but is that the display.
I will get an engineer but trying to work out myself in advance.
Radiators not getting hot, or takes hours.
Wanted to ask if below is a good indicator of a technical problem, rather than looking for blockages etc etc.
The boiler is cycling from 45 degrees, climbing quickly (a degree a second) to 50 where it alternates between the temp & H -¦-. Gets to 80 degree's & stops firing, quickly drops to 45 degree's, fires again & repeats all in the space of a few minutes, mostly allowing for cool down.
The return pipe is luke warm, even when the display says 80 degrees.
On the most base level, Is this incorrect?
I assume this is meant to be the return temp or is the display something else.
If not normal behavier (i.e. temp & pipe not similar) either the Boiler has developed a fault or as below...
.. 2 years ago had NEST installed to replace standard stat. Was a "NEST engineer" but I think had no idea as was messing with wiring inside the boiler! I said to him sure he only needed a relative simple rewire & did not need the case off, I had read the instructions. In the end the boiler was going bonkers. He went away & sent a friend who I assumed fixed but ever since not great but to be honest is a warm house and was in the summer so come winter & not great but just OK.
Revisiting now & just think not correct.
The flow out is super hot & the pump is working, just changed thinking it might have been that but no better.
HW gets hot but pipe close and I image flow & return helps.
3 port value works fine, moves to select the correct flow direction.
Does this cycling on HW only, CH only & both.
Most obvious on CH only as flow pipe v.hot & return tepid.
With HW on I think as pipe close natural return does get bit hotter.
I imagine could do with better balancing, checking for trapped air & even power flush but just think this is wrong.
Could there there be another explanation for high temp reading & cold return.
If there were a blockage on flow would the boiler show high temp, typing this I guess there would be some fail safe to stop overheating but is that the display.
I will get an engineer but trying to work out myself in advance.