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95matt

The boiler is 21 years old and is well, past it's best. Have to constantly press the button on the bottom of the unit (potterton profile 50e).

So new boiler time, new controls, thermostat. What else would people recommend we have done, new HW tank, pump etc.

Currently have an open vented system, microbore pipes. 2 bathrooms.

Also, can anyone recommend someone to install it, I'm in Basingstoke.

Thanks
 
95matt - re the recommendation, assuming you don't know of a plumber your builder/electrician/decorator or whichever tradesman will probably know a good one as they have to work with them from time to time.
 
The potterton profile is a good boiler,as said in other threads inner flue should be checked to make sure still ok

The button on the bottom of the unit is the high limit thermostat activating,so unit must be over heating,maybe just new boiler thermostat required,not uncommon fault,should get a few more years out of it

imho
 
if its cutting out on a high limit stat on a microbore system it is possibe the system is clugged up and you'll still have problems with a new boiler, at worst have it powerflushed at best have it repiped in 15mm and 22mm
 
As puddle said the profile was and still is a good boiler but the inner flues do rot. Probably it does just need a good flush out but powerflushing on 8mm is not a great success. If all your rads still heat put some X800 in the system and let it circulate for a week or 2. Try keeping the boiler stat turned down a wee bit in the meantime.
There is nothing wrong with having a microbore system even in 8mm, if it was put in right.

A high limit stat will be the least of your worries with a new condenser.
Just being honest with you :eek:
 
My last boiler lasted 35 years. I had my boiler replaced it 10 years ago with a non-condensing boiler. I know that the boiler in my fathers place (a baxi bermuda set up) ran 30 years before the house was sold. 21 years doesn't necessarily sound over the hill. You need a good local man to give a thorough inspection in my non-professional opinion.
 
Thanks for the replies.

Well I think it's 8mm microbore.

A bit more info, we have found out one rad upstairs is always cold. I've tried to bled the rads where possible as it sounds like there is air in the system but very little air comes out. The button pressing got worse when we switched the CH on (was just on HW and rarely needed to push the button).

The boiler does need a new ignition lead.

Replumbing the whole lot would no doubt involve a lot of work!
 
It definitly sounds as if the system is clogging up.

Maybe adding some system cleaner and running it with it in for a week or so, might be a good idea.
 
So to add cleaner I assume I have to drain the system - refill via the header tank and add in some cleaner?
 
not drain completely - add cleaner to header tank whilst system is off turn water off and drain down a couple of buckets - turn water back on, make sure feed and expansion tank is re-filling - bleed rads leave for a couple of weeks with system running on normal cycle. then drain down and re-fill with inhibitor.
 
Turn off the inlet valve at the header tank (or tie the ball up).
Drain 3 or 4 gallons through the drain point.
Add the X800 to the header tank and turn the water back on.
Leave for up to a month then totally drain and refill.
Add some X100 if you like.
£30 of chemicals and about an hour or so of your time.

qplumb beat me to it over the page
icon11.png
 
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just put the cleaner into the f&e tank and drain about 2-3 buckets of water out of the system at a low point on the system,
 
Ok X800 has gone in - drained some water out the kitchen rad. All fires up ok - guess we'll wait and see what happens. The water that was coming out was completely clear, I was expecting it to be dirty ...
 
you will quite often get clean water out as the sludge is seated in the pipework as a guide boiler swap/flush 1800.00 depending on wiring requirements
 
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