Boulter 95/135 Classic oil boiler | Boilers | Plumbers Forums

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Discuss Boulter 95/135 Classic oil boiler in the Boilers area at Plumbers Forums

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furryneddy

Hi have just serviced an old oil fired boulter classic 95/135 which has been out of use for some time - everything is up and running ok fires up etc etc but on replacing the front cover casing the boiler within a minute or so the flame fails, trys to relight and then lockout runs perfect without front cover - I know its an air problem but the boiler obviously worked at some time with the casing on, I opened up the air intake abit to see if it made a difference but to no avail ! the only thing I have noticed is that at the end of the low level flue outlet the sampling point plate has come away from the square housing that it sits in, I refitted it as it was laying in the bottom of the terminal guard! not too close to the outlet pipe of course but far enough in to serve its purpose. I'm not sure what to do here as I'm a bit flummoxed was putting the plate back the problem or am I missing something more basic?
 
Hiya, I would imagine that there is a seal problem on the flue.It sounds like the flue gases are mixing with the combustion air and causing the flame to die.The door is acting as a seal.
John
 
.when I said "seal problem" it could be the seal on the burner or on the boiler cleaning door,seeing as you have disturbed both to service it
good luck
 
Hi boilerman thanks for your reply - yes thought so- couldn't understand why the plate was loose in the end of the flue any way didn't seem to have been spot welded in place anywhere so just put it back in as far as I thought - it has a small hole in it for sampling there's no where in the boiler to sample from this is the only place ! but will check the seals you mention - could you recommend a good sealant for these places as parts for this boiler seem to be non-existant
 
Hi, if the access door is leaking,has it got a rope seal or is it ceramic fibre board,either way Parts Centre (used to be HRPC) could supply that.
If its the burner seal,I,ve used PTFE tape in the past to create a seal,just wind it around the burner blast tube.The other point to check is the flue itself.Is the pipe carrying the flue gases intact if not fire cement or silver tape might sort it.Try not to use fire cement unless its unavoidable,its a ****.
I carry a small mirror to test for leaks,it foolproof,it just condenses up if theres a leak.
Hope I,m not teaching you how to suck eggs
 
Hi - No to the eggs ! need all the help I can get - how would you use the mirror ? just hold it near where you think the leak is ?
 
yes mate just hold it as close as possible to all the joints and it should be clear when you remove it.
Get yourself down the pound shop and buy a mirror on a stick.dont know how much they are though.;)
 
yes mate just hold it as close as possible to all the joints and it should be clear when you remove it.
Get yourself down the pound shop and buy a mirror on a stick.dont know how much they are though.;)

Maybe a pound perhaps ! once again thanks for your help..... Il'l let you know how it turns out
 
Hi Boilerman went back today and removed the plate that I carefully replaced in the end of the flue - fired the boiler replaced the cover and ...... everything ok so conclusion is 1. I dont know everything despite some very expensive training ! 2. is there old B/F's out there that have a removable sampling point plate that is only temporary ??? it would seem so.. because the boiler works much better with it laying in the bottom of the flue guard ! Well Boilerman thank's for your advice and help I hope one day I will be able to give as good as advice as you have.
 
Dont worry mate nobody(especially me) knows it all,the important thing is YOU sussed it.
Personally I never use the exterior sampling point anyway,its too easy to get a wrong reading.I always drill a hole on the inside and stick a bolt back in after.
Well done kidda
 
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