cast iron soil pipe, what now ? | Boilers | Plumbers Forums

Welcome to the forum. Although you can post in any forum, the USA forum is here in case of local regs or laws

American Visitor?

Hey friend, we're detecting that you're an American visitor and want to thank you for coming to PlumbersTalk.net - Here is a link to the American Plumbing Forum. Though if you post in any other forum from your computer / phone it'll be marked with a little american flag so that other users can help from your neck of the woods. We hope this helps. And thanks once again.

Discuss cast iron soil pipe, what now ? in the Boilers area at Plumbers Forums

Status
Not open for further replies.
G

gravytrain

hi folks,

went to change a WC today and the soil is cast iron right upto the pan.
also the branch then joins a shared main soil with next door all in cast iron.

the customer wants the old low level removing and a new CC putting in

just wondered what, if any, options i've got apart from putting in a new low level to replace the old
also will a pan connector connect up to the cast soil. pictures included. thanks

blackberry april 2012 032.jpgblackberry april 2012 030.jpgblackberry april 2012 033.jpgblackberry april 2012 031.jpg
 
remove the old pan, then put a new blade in your hacksaw, cut through the top of the pipe about 50mm from the wall, cut through the pipe till the blade is inside the pipe, making a cut of approx 60mm across the top of the pipe, then get a 2lb (dont do metric) club hammer and skelp(technical phrase) the faucet of the iron pipe, it will shear right off, then fit a McAlpine multikwik into the cast iron,
PS be brave when you skelp the pipe, and go for it haha
 
thanks for that. that sounds scary !!!

could you explain a bit more. i'm assuming you mean inside the property.
what do you mean by faucet.

i'm also assuming you mean after removing the pan

plus whats the likelihood that the pipe will just shatter !!!
 
thanks for that. That sounds scary !!!

Could you explain a bit more. I'm assuming you mean inside the property. (yes)
what do you mean by faucet. (where the pan goes into the pipe)

i'm also assuming you mean after removing the pan (yes)

plus whats the likelihood that the pipe will just shatter !!!
(this is where the bravery comes in, i have done this loads of timesd and never had one shatter yet, thats why i said be brave and you only need to hit it once, you do need to remeove the pan first to allow the pipe to drop, and the only real danger is the short bit bouncing off the floor and hitting you on the shin which is very sore)

 
Dust sheet under before you hit it stops it bouncing at shin, so speaks the voice of wisdom (and a sore shin once).
 
If the branch on the left is yours I wouldn't worry too much if it goes pear shaped, you can replace with plastic without disturbing the stack. Looks like your side goes into a connector. Just make sure next doors don't flush their toilet while your side is off !!
As above though, first option is to break the pipe indoors. Let us know how you get on :)
 
Open all windows in bathroom, disconnect temporarily any smoke detecters, put a dust sheet down and cover any areas that can't be marked and cut the cast iron with a angle grinder and metal cutting disc. Connect using a Multiquick extension and a offset pan connector or a short flexible pan connector.

Wear goggles, gloves and ear protection. PPE is very important.
 
Reminds me off when I was a laddie,had to strip out pan same way but being a Friday and tad hungover ,never cut through c/I .faucet sheared,had to replace right to outside stack.spent rest off day stuck down in garden ,just in boxers by 4 holefasts,no sun cream and roasting,never done that again.....
 
cut half tho then as DGas says hit with a hammer. i end up doing all the time in council houses or use a grinder, one thing i would say is cover any other white items with a dust sheet as the bits of mental sit on the white items eg bath and it turns it rust
 
just cut it with a hacksaw, 5 mins max

remenber to make sure the new bog either has the same height outlet or you have agreeded with the customer beforehand how you will lift the pan up to the correct height.
 
thanks for all these responses

i did think of angle grinding it off, flippin job is in the middle of nowhere so naturally i didnt have
my angle grinder and hacksaw blade was ancient and had no spares.
just one of those days.

no worries about other 'white' things, REDSAW post total filth has a similarity to this job
although bloke is nice chap, just very 'country'

if i had to replace right back to the main stack, can i get plastic fittings to go into the cast main stack
 
Just take the cast back to the t on the riser, plastic into cast socket and seal up. If you had to.
 
so guys, if you do have to raise a toilet an inch or so to meet the original cast iron pipe, what do you do it with? Concrete?
 
99 times out of 100 I'll lower the outlet so the toilet sits on the floor. Proper job and looks a lot better.
 
ok thanks Simon. When i did a bit of work in South Africa with a plumbing company, we installed all toilets with concrete. The trouble is, you have to break them to get a leak with the pan connector
 
Come across a few that were sat in a mortar mix. Easy fixed with the 'big' screwdriver :)
 
In the good old days, I used to cut cast iron pipe with snap cutters/chain cutters and lead and rope run the joints. You young uns get it easy these days with your O rings, push fits and those horrible flexi hose things.

Bring back lead pipe, at least at the scrappie it was worth something unlike plastic! LOL
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Similar plumbing topics

Turn your phone 45 degrees!!! The picture is...
Replies
6
Views
673
Use ss 304 forged fittings...(connector)
Replies
2
Views
656
You’re welcome. Just through the wall.
Replies
6
Views
1K
Deleted member 120897
D
Sorry for the late post on this but just...
Replies
23
Views
2K
A
It’s mainly because of the boss eg pipe into...
Replies
5
Views
1K
Back
Top