Cement-like substance surrounding shower valve

[Kaptain-Plastic]

Hi

My shower has a very very slow leak from the valve area that is showing up on the other side of the wall to which the valve is installed. I have carefully removed the tile surrounding the valve and found the entire area enclosed in some fibrous, cement like substance. I've attached some photos. The dark area on the bottom left is wet from the leak and is flaking off, while the rest is pretty solid. Does anyone have any idea on what this "filler" substance is, and the best way to get it off?

Cheers,
KP

 

[Chalked]

Hi
Only way is to use a hammer and a sharp chisel to chip away, until you can remove the fitting.

 

[gmartine]

Looks like ready-mix tile adhesive, fibre may have been or part of an attempt to protect the copper pipe.

 

[gmartine]

It's horrible stuff, hammer and scutch chisel.

 

[chris watkins]

Looks more like bonding plaster to me KP.
Is it quite soft & easily to chop out?

 

[marvoni]

Looks a bit like plumbing hemp but not sure why it would be there...

 

[Kaptain-Plastic]

Hi all thanks for all of your suggestions and sorry for the late reply. It struck me that given the age of my property, it might be worth checking the stuff for presence of asbestos - it only cost a few quid and would give me peace of mind even though the guy taking the sample thought it was highly unlikely. So I am awaiting those results before proceeding.

Having had a bit of a further dig into the hole, I think the fibres are to do with pipe lagging/protection. I'm hoping the bits that aren't water damaged are easy to scrape/chip off, will let u know. It's just strange that the water was able to "melt" whatever it is.

 

[Ric2013]

If that fibre burns, it isn't asbestos. I suspect you'll find the pipe is wrapped in felt pipe lagging to prevent the copper coming into contact with the mortar. To be honest, the plastic fitting suggests it isn't all that old.

How much did the sampling and analysis cost, out of interest? Was that the person taking the sample AND sending it off, or did you have to take the sample and post it?

 

[Kaptain-Plastic]

Hi the asbestos tests came back negative, so I started scraping at the cement/mortar to get to the leak. The wet bits just fell off, the dry bits were still soft enough to scrape away. All it took was a half turn of another plastic connector on the elbow joint (not visible in the photo) to stop the leak. I'm just waiting for the wall the other side to dry out so I can redecorate. I also need to figure out whether I need to fill what I've scraped out before re-fixing the tile, and what product to fill with - any thoughts from anyone?

The testing was done by a friend-of-a-friend at mates rates, so I've been lucky on that front at least!

Thanks to all here who replied with suggestions/advice.

KP

 

[Deuce]

Hi the asbestos tests came back negative, so I started scraping at the cement/mortar to get to the leak. The wet bits just fell off, the dry bits were still soft enough to scrape away. All it took was a half turn of another plastic connector on the elbow joint (not visible in the photo) to stop the leak. I'm just waiting for the wall the other side to dry out so I can redecorate. I also need to figure out whether I need to fill what I've scraped out before re-fixing the tile, and what product to fill with - any thoughts from anyone?

The testing was done by a friend-of-a-friend at mates rates, so I've been lucky on that front at least!

Thanks to all here who replied with suggestions/advice.

KP

You should probably replace the washers prior to covering back over, just because you have the opportunity to now and probably won't ever want to open up the tiled wall to gain access again. I also tend to use wras approved medium lock sealant on fittings that are 'buried' as it stops them coming loose, and under compression compensates the washer seal just in case it doesn't seat perfectly.

Personally I would frame the fitting with timber and put in a piece of water resistant plasterboard to cover the valves and allow for re-tiling. If you use stainless screws you can then gain access again in the future by removing the single tile again, and unscrewing the board. Far less hassle than digging filler out