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Discuss Central heating problem in the Central Heating Forum area at Plumbers Forums

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arhplumbheat

Hi all

I was called to a job today in a 3rd floor flat. The customer complained about the central heating not working. its conventional system with f+e tank above potterton kingfisher cf 60 floor standing open flued boiler. The problem seems to be when the programmer is switched to CH and the trv are all open, the boiler kicks in, runs for about 2-5 mins and cuts out. It heats the pipework up in the cupboard where it is situated nicely but the heat only just gets to the first rad on the system before it cuts out.
I checked to see if the pump was working and it was ceased up so I replaced this but problem is still there. The pump valves were ceased also so I had to drain down.
The general condition of the system was old and poorly maintained. Sludge in pipework, f+e tank dirty and stagnant.
(f and e tank was being supplied from a cold feed from the cold water tank in loft, is this allowed?) .
The 3 port motorized valve which is only 6 inch or so from the pump was showing no sign of holding open on the spring when I tried to see it would stay on one side.


The HW cylinder was warm when I arrived so I am assuming the boiler runs for long enough to heat the water in there. Unlikely to of been heated via immersion as fused switch for it was coved in dust!


So any ideas of why boiler cuts out after such a short time?


Many thanks in advance


Adam
 
Hi all

I was called to a job today in a 3rd floor flat. The customer complained about the central heating not working. its conventional system with f+e tank above potterton kingfisher cf 60 floor standing open flued boiler. The problem seems to be when the programmer is switched to CH and the trv are all open, the boiler kicks in, runs for about 2-5 mins and cuts out. It heats the pipework up in the cupboard where it is situated nicely but the heat only just gets to the first rad on the system before it cuts out.
I checked to see if the pump was working and it was ceased up so I replaced this but problem is still there. The pump valves were ceased also so I had to drain down.
The general condition of the system was old and poorly maintained. Sludge in pipework, f+e tank dirty and stagnant.
(f and e tank was being supplied from a cold feed from the cold water tank in loft, is this allowed?) .
The 3 port motorized valve which is only 6 inch or so from the pump was showing no sign of holding open on the spring when I tried to see it would stay on one side.


The HW cylinder was warm when I arrived so I am assuming the boiler runs for long enough to heat the water in there. Unlikely to of been heated via immersion as fused switch for it was coved in dust!


So any ideas of why boiler cuts out after such a short time?


Many thanks in advance


Adam

You have done alot of visual checks but as said you are going to have to get use to using a multi meter to test heating circuit from programmer,room stat,motorised valve ect,
Look on you tube for lessons on basic how multi meter use and honeywell site to look at wiring diagrams,get the basics
 
totaly agree you cant do electrical fault finding with out a multi meter,and if you dont know how to use find out not only will it save you money in correct faulting it may one day save your life
 
Good advice about having to use and know how to use a multimeter but my advice is don`t use youtube to teach you
 
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