Cistern Float change

[moghm]

Hello. Need some help please...I have a concealed cistern and the side entry float keeps getting stuck. I have done jobs such as changing these things before but a little bit hesitant as unfamiliar with the connection I can see before me. I know its a compression one but can I undo the nut without needed a new compression fitting ? Any advice would be welcome please e.g how do I go about changing the side entry float and any recommendations on which one to buy that will fit a concealed
cistern...Appreciate the help.

 

[rpm]

Firstly remove the shelf and the cistern lid then post a photo of the fill valve if you need further assistance.

 

[moghm]

I cant remove shelf as all siliconed in. Please check pic, i dont think access would be an issue....many thanks

Firstly remove the shelf and the cistern lid then post a photo of the fill valve if you need further assistance.

 

[steadyon]

You have three connectors:
1. The nut which joins the white plastic pipe to the threaded shank of the toilet's fill valve. This is what is known as a tank connector. It is not a compression joint but has a 1/2" (pipe size, not physical size) fibre washer inside it which seals against the flat edge of the inlet shank.
2. The nuts at top and bottom of the isolation valve. These are compression nuts. In theory you shouldn't have to touch them, just turn the water off at the screwdriver slot between them.

Your pipework does not look as if it is square, but appears to be pushed away from the cistern at the top. This may make it more difficult to install a new inlet valve, but it shouldn't be too hard.

 

[moghm]

Many thanks. Im going to order a side float. So hopefully, if i undo the nut on the tank connector I should be able to tighten it back up?

You have three connectors:
1. The nut which joins the white plastic pipe to the threaded shank of the toilet's fill valve. This is what is known as a tank connector. It is not a compression joint but has a 1/2" (pipe size, not physical size) fibre washer inside it which seals against the flat edge of the inlet shank.
2. The nuts at top and bottom of the isolation valve. These are compression nuts. In theory you shouldn't have to touch them, just turn the water off at the screwdriver slot between them.

Your pipework does not look as if it is square, but appears to be pushed away from the cistern at the top. This may make it more difficult to install a new inlet valve, but it shouldn't be too hard.

 

[rpm]

Many thanks. Im going to order a side float. So hopefully, if i undo the nut on the tank connector I should be able to tighten it back up?

Wouldn`t do that just yet, would wait until you see what you have there and how much room for the new one.

 

[moghm]

Wouldn`t do that just yet, would wait until you see what you have there and how much room for the new one.

yes ill check, but cant wait any longer now....

 

[rpm]

Your 2nd picture and post has only just become visual to me.
Ignore past comments

 

[centralheatking]

Many thanks. Im going to order a side float. So hopefully, if i undo the nut on the tank connector I should be able to tighten it back up?

Important. It is really easy to cross thread plastic male thread on to the female securing nut and it will leak. Put the new ball valve in then put the lock nut on very loosely so you can move the whole thing. Then connect the supply to the valve by hand with washer in, watch for it cross threading. Then when correct and tight then tighten up lock nut on the cistern....tried and tested. Centralheatking