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Cold water makes a lot of noise - excessive pressure?

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omega_prime

Hi,

I am hoping I can do something about the excessive noise that cold water creates in my parents' house. It is ex-council and about 3-4 years ago we installed a shower, and as far as we can remember, prior to that we didn't have any loud noises like this.

I have provided some diagrams (please excuse the crudeness of it) and if you do need further explanation of my poor drawings please tell.

My initial thoughts were to use a drinking tap which will be a smaller pipe in itself and have them filters fitted to make use of the effort it would take but if I could avoid drilling into the sink to put a new tap in, it would be the better option.


s14.postimage.org/6z178ufc1/diagram_water_system.png
s14.postimage.org/rx7d6xf6p/photo_water_system.png

I can't add img url and the attachments would be too small for my diagram so sorry if this isn't fully abiding by the rules.
 
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glenno1 said:
Have you tried to turn stopcock down slightly,if not this may help
Click to expand...

Hi, yes we did try that but for whatever reason it didn't help

The noise, vocaroo.com/i/s0SH5GovUu6l

The microphone doesn't really give it justice but it sounds a lot louder in real life but it is that water noise. And this is recorded from my bedroom.

The only thing we did find that worked was having the tops on the bath and sink (upstairs) running to equal it out but still makes enough splatter noise nor is it really feasible way of doing it.
 
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Hi all,

I have figured out something which I didn't really pay attention to before. The valve to the tap is extremely old and wasn't changed. Could anyone tell me what type of valve it is? It looks a little weird to me that it goes to an angle so quickly and has the drainage like system.

Image:
s10.postimage.org/f49qoun09/IMG_20130301_200030.jpg
 
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If you have an outside tap or washing machine valve you can put a pressure guage on it. Once you know the pressure, both static ( no taps running) and dynamic pressure (with tap running) you can then decide if a pressure reducing valve is needed. Anything above 3 bar will create more noise.
 
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Howsie said:
Call a plumber. If the noise wasn't there before you installed the shower and now it is, suggests something isn't right.
Click to expand...


Well when I say 'we' we did actually get a plumber, however, he is a retired plumber that we knew but don't necessarily have a lot of contact with now. It may turn into an expensive job, which is the reason why I am not interested in doing it other than just trying out a few things, after all, it is just irritating rather than anything else.

kozak1968 said:
If you have an outside tap or washing machine valve you can put a pressure guage on it. Once you know the pressure, both static ( no taps running) and dynamic pressure (with tap running) you can then decide if a pressure reducing valve is needed. Anything above 3 bar will create more noise.
Click to expand...

Hi,

To add a pressure gauge must I do any cutting or can I just remove the link between the inside T junction leading to the outside tap?
 
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They do a pressure gauge on a flexi in screwfix or toolstation that fits. Just screw the flexi on the outside tap (unscrew the hose connector first). If a non return valve is fitted to outside tap ( identified by nut under tap body) then dont tighten flexi too tight, let it drip, or you will only get the static pressure.
 
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kozak1968 said:
They do a pressure gauge on a flexi in screwfix or toolstation that fits
Click to expand...

Hi, ok, so doing a bar check near the end where the tap is, will give me enough indication about pressure throughout the entire system? so e.g. where I have changed that valve to a flexi valve, I could remove that and stick a pressure gauge and that would give me sufficient information?

Cheers.
 
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kozak1968 said:
It will give you the pressure reading for the incoming mains supply
Click to expand...

Sorry to annoy you again, I was trying to find a way to have a pressure reducer and pressure gauge in one but can only find:

NoLinkingToThis/p/prv-with-gauge-15-x-22mm/41943

Reviews are putting me off a bit, same one seemingly at toolstation be it £5 more expensive. Though the idea of it being compatible with 15mm and 22mm just to be compatible with everything is putting me off. I also assume I would need at least a bit of pipe in order to connect it up? Or if there is some special valve I could use to not need it. The pipes we have is 1/2" so the ones like the flexi type I seemingly can't use as the only ones I see are 3/4"

Many thanks for your help kozak.
 
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It just sounds like velocity noise which happens when water is trying to fly through a reduced bore, is it when you use any oulet or just the shower . cant figure out how to see ur pics ( i might be being a bit thick).
 
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The problem is only when I use the kitchen tap downstairs and to a slightly lesser degree, the outside tap though it seems the noise is contained to the pipe outside rather than the entire system when the kitchen tap.

The shower immediately gets the water from the main feed, it then travels upstairs to then feed off to the boiler / bathroom / tiolet and then the two lines (hot and cold) meet together downstairs to the kitchen. Only the cold water is the problem though, hot is how it should sound.

I will rapidly try and post new pictures to try and make it a bit clearer, I thought I may have not got a single answer so I didn't want to spend 30 minutes on a diagram nobody would have bothered to look at.
 
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Has the kitchen tap and outside tap got ballofix valves on them (slotted head chrome)..Some people turn them down to equal the flow with the hot and they make a right racket if there turned off slightly..pictures pictures.
 
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Cold water supply:
cold_water_supply_route_page_1.jpg


Hi, Whyme we do have one of them (i have called it an isolation valve, not sure if that is correct or not) to be able to turn off the flow to the outside tap in the winter.

Also, before I forget, the last bit of copper pipe leading up to the basin looks like it has been slightly pulled out from the wall in order to make use of the air letting out valve which is vertically up. So I'm not sure whether this will affect anything either. The hot water has been done in the same way.
 
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If your sink tap is a mono block ( 1 tap hole) they sometimes make noise on the cold side.also the nrv part of an outside tap can be noisy all due to velocity noise. pressure reducing valves no matter where you get them from are usually the same so dont panick and fit one i you think it'll help.( if it is velocity noise though it wont really, especially as it sounds like tap or valve related)
 
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Whyme said:
If your sink tap is a mono block ( 1 tap hole) they sometimes make noise on the cold side.also the nrv part of an outside tap can be noisy all due to velocity noise. pressure reducing valves no matter where you get them from are usually the same so dont panick and fit one i you think it'll help.( if it is velocity noise though it wont really, especially as it sounds like tap or valve related)
Click to expand...

Hmm... I wonder if it is velocity noise, I believe the main parts of the noise are up to where the drop between the floors is to the tap itself.
 
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