Concreted Waste Pipe

[jaydebruyne]

So the elbow pan connector has been cemented into this 6 or 7 inch pipe and not set straight so pan is emptying slowly and I have to fix it.

So after taking the toilet out, how is best to get the pan connector and concrete out?

SDS chisel?

Also, a lot of concrete will end up going down the pipe, any way of stopping this or making sure not much ends up down the pipe.. I dont want to cause a blockage...

Cheers in advance

 

[Best]

You could cut the flexi off level & stuff a newspaper down inside it and drill only with an ordinary drill with masonry bit & on drill mode only. Got to go easy. Once you get one part straight down cleared, the rest should fall away from the sewer pipe easy

 

[jaydebruyne]

Is there a reducer/converter available to go between the pan connector and the sewer pipe?

 

[ShaunCorbs]

Is there a reducer/converter available to go between the pan connector and the sewer pipe?

no sorry nothing for that pipe/ connection

why do you need to take the flexi out ?

 

[plumben]

Nice long rubber gauntlet, Stanley knife the flexi out, black rubble bag filled with ASDA bags down the drain to catch anything and drill NOT hammer the concrete out once you get a piece out the rest should just fall way

 

[Best]

Are you sure that is a 6" pipe?
A 4" clay sewer pipe will be about 6" at a joint. On that point - if you do ever break the joint end, you can simply cut the clay pipe below the joint and use a straight extension piece to push into the 4" pipe & then a pan 90degree bend

 

[jaydebruyne]

no sorry nothing for that pipe/ connection

why do you need to take the flexi out ?

Unless I can straighten the pan connector so the water isn't rising as it leaves the pan I have no choice but to remove it and rebuild it...

Or is there another way to do this?

 

[ShaunCorbs]

Are you sure that is a 6" pipe?
A 4" clay sewer pipe will be about 6" at a joint. On that point - if you do ever break the joint end, you can simply cut the clay pipe below the joint and use a straight extension piece to push into the 4" pipe & then a pan 90degree bend

or even better use a drain connector slightly bigger than a pan connector

 

[jaydebruyne]

Are you sure that is a 6" pipe?
A 4" clay sewer pipe will be about 6" at a joint. On that point - if you do ever break the joint end, you can simply cut the clay pipe below the joint and use a straight extension piece to push into the 4" pipe & then a pan 90degree bend

Ohhh,

So thats what they've done then, put a 4" flexi down the clay pipe and filled the 6" joint with cement... Makes sense now.

So all I'd need to do then is remove the flexi and do as stated above without removing the joint.. Refill joint if necessary.

No?

 

[ShaunCorbs]

Ohhh,

So thats what they've done then, put a 4" flexi down the clay pipe and filled the 6" joint with cement... Makes sense now.

So all I'd need to do then is remove the flexi and do as stated above without removing the joint.. Refill joint if necessary.

No?

yes should but we all know there are bodgers out there so might be just a cut flexi tail

 

[turnpin]

That's a four inch cast iron pipe collar your looking at ....as stated drill out with a small masonry bit dig out the concrete and remove the flexible ....check out a McAlpine con q pan connector or prompt cement a piece of 4" soil pipe into the collar obviously cut to suit and use a bent multikwik a 21/90 or 31/90 ....regards Turnpin:

 

[stevetheplumber]

No need to drill just cut the flex I push a sackdown and knock towards centre with hammer and chisel unless you hit the cast it will not break the cast