Confusion understanding Burner manual specifications (electrodes gaps)

[MiguelPlumbelo]

Hello

I've recently come across a Sterling Bentone burner manual online which is for my 2001 burner and I intend to use it to check my electrode gaps.

The manual illustrates this information however it states multiple measurements and has me a little confused.

For gap between electrodes it states 2, 5-3, 1? (I'd assume 2mm gapping but why the other numbers)

For the distance between the eye of the burner nozzle and electrode tips it states 7, 0-8, 0? (my guess would be 7mm but again why the other figures)

I've put in a screenshot of the illustration in the manual

If anyone could lend there thought to what figures I go by it'd be greatly appreciated

 

[ShaunCorbs]

2.5 - 3.1mm between

7.0 - 8.0mm away from centre

0.5 - 1.0mm from front

 

[MiguelPlumbelo]

2.5 - 3.1mm between

7.0 - 8.0mm away from centre

0.5 - 1.0mm from front

Cheers

I guess the confusion came in with ',' instead of '.' being used. Maybe the Swedes don't write it the same as UK or Ireland.

Appreciate your reply

 

[SJB060685]

Out of curiosity why are checking the electrode gaps? Do you have a problem with ignition etc?

 

[Chuck]

I guess the confusion came in with ',' instead of '.' being used. Maybe the Swedes don't write it the same as UK or Ireland.

Most European countries use a comma for the decimal point. The UK is an exception.

(It's one of the reasons why using Microsoft's "Comma Separated Values" file format for numerical data is a bad idea.)

 

[MiguelPlumbelo]

Out of curiosity why are checking the electrode gaps? Do you have a problem with ignition etc?

I'm checking the electrode gaps as I think I knocked them off spec while changing the burner nozzle.

To pull the burner nozzle out it makes contact with the electrodes on the way past.

I noticed last service the burner nozzle had a lot of black debris running down it as in the photos attached. I'm guessing this is due to the electrodes being out of spec as I never touched any settings to do with air flow or pump pressure in the previous service.

 

[SJB060685]

The nozzle looks like the electrodes have been arching/partly arching across the nozzle.

 

[MiguelPlumbelo]

The nozzle looks like the electrodes have been arching/partly arching across the nozzle.

I'm going to check/change the current burner nozzle this weekend and adjust the electrodes till they are in tolerance and hopefully the issue will resolve itself.

Appreciate your input

 

[MiguelPlumbelo]

Update

I've just fitted a new burner nozzle and adjusted the electrodes to Bentone manual specification yesterday.

It appeared to me that one of the electrodes was bent about 1mm or 2mm out while the other was in spec (8mm from the eye of the nozzle). I can say I'm happy now they are in spec.

However with the burner out I noticed quite a bit of play on the nozzle assembly. This led me to to start tinkering with the burner in an attempt to tighten up the hex bar the nozzle assembly is fixed to. In doing so I inadvertently discovered how to adjust nozzle distance to the brake plate which I probably shouldn't have touched at all. I'm now wondering is that play on the hex bar/nozzle assembly normal?

I've attached a picture of my setup if it helps to see what I'm referring to

One other thing I noticed was a residual amount of kerosene drip out of the assembly when I undone the nozzle. I'm mentioning this as I don't remember this ever happening the previous 2 times I fitted a nozzle, would this be a normal occurrence?

Thanks in advance for any advice given

 

[SJB060685]

There’s a screwable adjustment that distances the nozzle to the defuser plate. This allows you to accurately set the flame pattern and primary/secondary air input. The nozzle assembly itself should not have noticeable movement

 

[MiguelPlumbelo]

There’s a screwable adjustment that distances the nozzle to the defuser plate. This allows you to accurately set the flame pattern and primary/secondary air input. The nozzle assembly itself should not have noticeable movement

Yeah I discovered that screw to adjust the distance yesterday but only because I thought it was to tighten up the bar which holds the assembly to the casing. The play is on that metal hexagon bar were it meets the burner casing. I'm now wondering if it that play was due to overtightening and being rough with the spanners on removing/fitting nozzles. Hope not anyway