Connecting a hose to copper pipe... Across an ibc | UK Plumbers Forums | Plumbers Forums

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I am making a wood fired hot tub using an ibc and a cast iron water jacket from an old oil boiler system.

I'll be connecting the jacket to the ibc using 22mm copper pipes. I am keeping it simple in the hope the convection will circulate the water and I won't need a pump....if this doesn't work I'll add a pump later.

However I want the option to pass the water through the jacket when the ibc is initially being filled, so that the ibc is filled with warm water straight away. So my thinking was to have the lower cold water intake to the jacket to have a hose pipe connection on the inside of the ibc so I can connect the hose, turn it on, water goes through the jacket and comes out the to hot and fills the ibc. Once the ibc is full, I can disconnect the hose from the inside of the tub and it can carry on warming via convection.

Sounds very simple but I can't find a tank connection with a hose pipe connection on one side and a 22mm pipe connection on the other. I can easily find hose ibc attachments, 22mm pipe ibc attachments and hose to 22mm pipe connections... But nothing that will do it on either side of a water tank.

Surely there must be a product out there for this but I am just not sure of the terminology.

Thanks in advance
 
I would think this through very carefully before getting your tools out.

To heat an IBC to 40 degrees ( from 10 degrees C) with a decent wood burning boiler (6kw) would take you around 7 hours. If you are making your own stove with a grate, old boiler heat exchanger and chimney - you probably won’t get 6kw. I guess your neighbours won’t be too pleased either with “puffing billy” pumping out woodsmoke all day.

You need to ensure that the system is properly vented and think through the safety, dump valves and relief systems, to ensure that at all times the pressure is at atmospheric.

On the basis that your tub water is going through the primary heat exchanger - cleanliness of the water and maintaining it will be an issue to address.

Whilst the IBC will maintain its integrity when heated to 60 degrees C ( we use that temp for cleaning them) - they must at all times be at atmospheric pressure.

On the same basis the pressure differential across your whole system must not exceed 0.5bar. If it does or has the potential to do so, it must confirm to the Pressure Equipment Directive - which you cannot on a DIY basis.

Good luck and have fun
 
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Not really getting much help on this post in terms of actually answering my question.... Just alot of doubt. It's amazing how passive aggression can be masked with an insincere polite line at the end of a message.

I hooked up a practice run yesterday to make sure it was all working ok before I clad it this weekend... And I had to tinker with it to get it right, and it won't be the exact plumbing in the end, but.... I filled the ibc container to 800 litres at a temperature of 33C. This included around 200 of normal 10C water before I actually got the fire going. Then after a while of the jacket not heating up the water efficiently I removed the baffles and got a larger fire going inside. It took just over 2 hours to fill the ibc.

I have a (practically) unlimited water supply from a spring source under a Munro. The water pressure isn't great for a shower but turns out it's perfect for putting it through the water jacket. Not too fast that it's cold. Not to slow that it's too hot.

I live in the middle of the countryside. I heat my home with wood throughout winter... So a small open fire on the occasional night in summer isn't going to bother my neighbour who live a ten minute drive away.

With regards to pressure equipment directive... It's a bit of backyard fun for me and me only. Maybe the misses if I am lucky. If you set up a zip line in the back garden for your kids do you ensure its compliant with loler regs... No. If you built I tree house or have people over on your decking do you make them do working at height? If so do people actually still come to your BBQs?

Sorry that turned into a rant. I do appreciate replies. But I'd appreciate a solution (which I think I have figured out anyway) rather than people being pessimistic.

Cheers
 
Apologies - I did not intend to upset you.

What I was trying to point out is that with any boiler maintaining flow and controlling pressure is a key criteria.

For your proposal a diverter valve on the boiler feed - or a 22mm tee with two isolating valves. Then you can determine which flow enters the boiler ( once through from the boiler or the circulating loop). You would need something like this anyway to control boiler make up water. Obviously the exchanger needs to be full of water and free of air before the boiler is fired, to avoid hot spots forming.



You will probably need a header tank to feed the boiler for the configuration where you are initially feeding warm water into the tank before circulating.
 
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Sorry that turned into a rant. I do appreciate replies. But I'd appreciate a solution (which I think I have figured out anyway) rather than people being pessimistic.

It was rather lol. Reason I haven't replied is I'm still not quite sure what you mean by a tank connection in the specific context of an IBC, and probably this is because this is outside my scope of knowledge, so I'm keeping out of it rather than give inaccurate and unhelpful advice. No further harm intended.
 
It was rather lol. Reason I haven't replied is I'm still not quite sure what you mean by a tank connection in the specific context of an IBC, and probably this is because this is outside my scope of knowledge, so I'm keeping out of it rather than give inaccurate and unhelpful advice. No further harm intended.
Same here mate don't want to encourage something that I have little knowledge of and could be potentially unsafe . Kop
 
What is an ibc?

This message contains over 20 characters now.
Intermediate bulk container (from google)
[automerge]1589202112[/automerge]
Not really getting much help on this post in terms of actually answering my question.. Just alot of doubt. It's amazing how passive aggression can be masked with an insincere polite line at the end of a message.

I hooked up a practice run yesterday to make sure it was all working ok before I clad it this weekend... And I had to tinker with it to get it right, and it won't be the exact plumbing in the end, but.. I filled the ibc container to 800 litres at a temperature of 33C. This included around 200 of normal 10C water before I actually got the fire going. Then after a while of the jacket not heating up the water efficiently I removed the baffles and got a larger fire going inside. It took just over 2 hours to fill the ibc.

I have a (practically) unlimited water supply from a spring source under a Munro. The water pressure isn't great for a shower but turns out it's perfect for putting it through the water jacket. Not too fast that it's cold. Not to slow that it's too hot.

I live in the middle of the countryside. I heat my home with wood throughout winter... So a small open fire on the occasional night in summer isn't going to bother my neighbour who live a ten minute drive away.

With regards to pressure equipment directive... It's a bit of backyard fun for me and me only. Maybe the misses if I am lucky. If you set up a zip line in the back garden for your kids do you ensure its compliant with loler regs... No. If you built I tree house or have people over on your decking do you make them do working at height? If so do people actually still come to your BBQs?

Sorry that turned into a rant. I do appreciate replies. But I'd appreciate a solution (which I think I have figured out anyway) rather than people being pessimistic.

Cheers

Can you please explain the issue with just making upmfrom 3 or 4 standard bits. How rigid is the IBC tank? You could always add a support stay. Is the hoze size important if solid is 22mm. Couple of gate valves might be neater? and not limit flow if that is an issue.

P.S. Please post a pic when working

Cheers,

Roy
 
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Not particularly. Sounds like 1980 Alternative Technology, though nothing wrong with that per se.

I'm wondering three things though...

1. If your mass gets anywhere near boiling during use of the oven you're going to have to circulate the water continually, so (even ignoring potential for a safety hazard - you'd probably need to connect it all up oven vented style like you would a backboiler) it will be robbing heat even WHILE you are cooking, not just after. This might be a problem, or it might not,

2. If the mass doesn't get that hot, while you might get reasonably warm water, you might find the total heat you get from the thermal mass of the oven to be disappointing. Even if you can get 100% of the heat from the brick into the water (which you won't), you'll find it takes about 4-5x as much heat to warm the same weight of water. So, if you have 100kg of brick at 60°C and you cool it to 20 °C AND RECOVER ALL THE HEAT, you'll only actually be able to heat 25l of water by the same temperature difference.

3. How to pronounce akkeosflomdis.
 
Is this a new concept? I am building the dome style brick oven near my separate deck and hot tub. I want to run 1" copper pipe under the floor and into tub. Why waste the heat after your pizza is done.
Any ideas?
I've built more than one authentic refractory brick pizza oven (neopolitan) over the years, so you want to bury copper pipe into the bed of it? Sounds like trouble and I'm not convinced (as above) you're going to get adequate transfer of heat under the oven brick floor via whatever substrate you're going to use to bury the copper pipe in. It's a fun thing to do but I'd think twice about over complicating it without doing some more serious calculations or building a smaller oven to test the theory. I was just happy getting the thing up to temp and being able to cook a few pizzas tbh.
 

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