Connecting a Salus RT510 receiver to Oil Boiler

[MisterG]

Hi. I recently purchased a house with an old oil boiler (Boulter Classic) which had a timer switch to turn the pump/boiler on/off.

After a bit of research I decided to replace the timer switch with a Salus RT510TX wireless thermostat / receiver.

So on replacing the old timer with the Salus receiver... the boiler no longer 'fires' up.

The mains power and boiler on/off leds appear to be working correctly both when using manual or auto mode (pairing with thermostat ok) but boiler does not turn on.

I have wired the receiver in 230v switching configuration, i.e. COM connected to L (has 4 connections - N L COM NO

I would appreciate it if anyone has any comments or ideas on what I could try to resolve this issue. Perhaps the thermostat / receiver isn't appropriate for the boiler?

Many thanks, Chris.

Update: I've just checked the switched outputs with a meter when they are supposed to be on (COM / NO) and there is no output.

 

[SJB060685]

I've no experience with this unit but I'll see if I can help. You have your main live and neutral to receiver yes? Where are you taking your common from? I'm looking at the wiring diagram online.

 

[SimonG]

Drop the temp on the thermostat below current temp. Allow to transmit, then turn thermostat back up and see if that works.

 

[SJB060685]

From what I can see from wiring diagram is you need a permanent live and neutral into receiver in L and N, you will also need a permanent live to common and a boiler and pump switch live from NO. Once wired as such remove head off plate and check you have incoming live and neutral at 230 volts. Once proved check you have 230 volts between common and neutral. If that's sound then make sure receiver is set to on, manual or auto makes no difference right now but will need to be set to auto once up and running and make sure the receiver and thermostat are actually paired. If all above is ok then you need to check for 230 volts at pump/boiler. If not then there must be a problem between thermostat and receiver, assuming you haven't forgot neutral to boiler and pump.

 

[richard3009]

you're replacing a TIMER with a thermostat, where is your original room stat wiring now?, the new unit does not replace a timer it replaces a thermostat the two wires that went to your hard wired room stat need to go to this base unit at the side of the boiler. The base unit will require its own supply LNE and the room stat wires need diverting to this unit, usually abandon the original stat cable and run fresh from boiler to this unit, if you never had a room stat it will be linked out on the pcb, remove link and wire across comm and normally open N/O doesn't matter which way round its just a switch.

 

[SJB060685]

I overlooked that and was assuming this was a programmable roomstat. Having said that what I said should work just without time control?

 

[richard3009]

Hive is the way to go it does the whole shooting match scheduled daily times accurate temps the lot, remote control, plus when you get reading on your phone that you have a runaway temperature you know the dreaded honeywell diverter has jammed in heat position.