Cut and cap a fire? | Plumbing Jobs | The Job-board | Plumbers Forums

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jonny5isalive

Plumbers Arms member
Plumber
Gas Engineer
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What method do people use to cut and cap a fire? Ive got solder stop ends which id probably use but took a fitting out yesterday and they had put a screw in cap in the elbow. Didnt seem ideal to me as you could unscrew the restrictor and vent gas to atmosphere. Thanks jon
 
Personally I would use a comp joint but never rely on turning it off at the elbow, it's not disconnected is it , it's just turned off.
 
Personally I would use a comp joint but never rely on turning it off at the elbow, it's not disconnected is it , it's just turned off.

What i always thought. Other people seem to differ on what as to what disconnecting means.

Spoke to someone yesterday who ided a boiler by cutting the electrical flex. Dodgy landlord who had called out at least him and one other to the same boiler with a broken flue. I would have cut and capped gas personally.
 
I Would always solder where poss just incase the opening gets blocked off.
 
Someone could do this with the fire live if they got a screwdriver out
 
What method do people use to cut and cap a fire? Ive got solder stop ends which id probably use but took a fitting out yesterday and they had put a screw in cap in the elbow. Didnt seem ideal to me as you could unscrew the restrictor and vent gas to atmosphere. Thanks jon

Undo restrictor and fit a plug onto nut and olive. But u can also undo nut and olive? Personally if at risk I just screw down restrictor. I'd its ID I remove restrictor and keep it in the job folder after week it goes in scrap bin.
 
Basics here guys!
If anyone unsure please look at GIUSP for clear definition.

For ID appliance as long as the appliance is disconnected from the gas supply and the open end made safe by whatever means then job done.

Personally easiest/quickest method is screw in plug into pedestal valve etc.
 
At least with a mechanical fitting it makes purging easier. Nothing more to be said.
 
You can put a plug in the restrictor elbow, but if it's more of a permanent thing then I would remove the elbow and put a black Iron cap on the thread.
 
iron plug in the outlet of the restrictor elbow

This is what it had. Fire obviously removed. I was surprised the restrictor elbow was left as all youd have to do is unscrew restrictor cap and the restrictor and it vents. Assumes common sense would mean you didnt i suppose but you never know.
 
Undo restrictor and fit a plug onto nut and olive. But u can also undo nut and olive? Personally if at risk I just screw down restrictor. I'd its ID I remove restrictor and keep it in the job folder after week it goes in scrap bin.

For ID do you mean you remove the whole elbow and cap it with an iron plug?
 
Here's another way to cap it:

18160d1396950619-hall-shame-photo-s-gastap.jpg


Crazy!
 
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You have to remove the appliance from the Gas supply. Use a valid gas fitting to do so, I use either end feed or compression. Key (beyond doing the work correctly)is to leave paperwork / labelling, then you're covered.
 
RIDDOR reportable.

Everyone has a different take on this i suppose. I RIDDORed a gas leak and have had nothing but grief from another engineer i used to work with and his dad (old school bg) for doing it. The idea being that you give the engineer the chance to fix their problem i think. Im happy with my decision but theyre certainly not.
 
Looks like old service stuffed with but of old denso. Then painted very common!
 
AR> turn off at gas fire operating tap,issue notice,signed and label fire

ID> disconnect at ped tap,screw down restrictor, fit brass or mi plug, label,issue notice.

Once we have done what the law requires of us,we cannot be held responsible for the actions of others and what might or might not happen.
 
Everyone has a different take on this i suppose. I RIDDORed a gas leak and have had nothing but grief from another engineer i used to work with and his dad (old school bg) for doing it. The idea being that you give the engineer the chance to fix their problem i think. Im happy with my decision but theyre certainly not.
They should have done the job safely, in the first place, then they would have nothing to answer to.
 
Exactly Reg man. Would they do it in the assessment bay when retaking their gas? I doubt it, so why is someone's house any different?
 
They either omitted to do a tightness test which is scary as the leak could have been any size or they left a 5mb drop knowingly for 3 days until the homeowner smelt gas. Which is worrying as then they think thats ok practice. Either way theyre a p**** and deserve all they get as far as im concerned. If theyre not carrying out simple safety checks and get leaks on 4 inches of pipework with one solder join what else is out there that theyve left. I dont think they should be allowed to work on gas until theyve proved competence but thats just me.
 
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