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G

geron

Since I had my heating system fully updated a few years ago with new Worcester boiler, cylinder, standard Drayton 3 way valve control package etc I have had issues with the HTS3 cylinder stat. The stat was replaced after a few days when I complained that the cylinder was not fully heating up consistently, but I believe was actually working normally. My problem seems to be due to the wide switching differential of about 8 degrees, which seems to be typical. and the fact that I have a small efficient and well insulated cylinder.
If I use most of the hot water the system heats up to a reasonable temperature within about 20 minutes and switches off. If the water is only about half used the system refuses to heat up. If I turn up the temperature on the stat it will heat up, but not necessarily a complete tankful. Due to new washing machine (cold fill) and a slight change of routine the problem now is more noticeable and has become more annoying. It is also possible that the HTS3 stat has got worse in that it seems to switch off at a lower temperature. If I pull it away from the tank it triggers the boiler and starts to heat up the cylinder, but cuts off sooner than expected.
I have several questions:
Am I the only person that thinks 8 or 10 degrees latency is ridiculous on a well insulated small cylinder controlled by a timer and a thermostat? I would like something that responds quickly to usage and then can be switched off. The high latency gets in the way of efficient usage of a small cylinder it may be OK for a big one.
The HTS3 seems to be designed not to contact the cylinder directly, but has sprung insulated feet on the base. Do these serve any purpose electrically - ie do they have any sort of make/break contacts? It is difficult to see what temperature the stat is measuring because of so much insulation around the device and the cylinder itself.
The stat is in the standard third of the way up cut out in the insulation but it is almost impossible to measure the temperature of the cylinder where it is fitted even with my infrared thermometer. What would you expect to be the actual switching on and off temperatures of the stat allowing for the positioning?
Finally is there an easy way to decide if the stat is faulty? Would it be likely to fail in a mode that it does not switches on until the temperature is lower and switches off earlier or could this be affected by the warm temperature in and airing cupboard?
 
turn it upto 60 deg, push it onto the cyl and leave it alone to do its job, if it doesnt turn on/off replace it, its only a switch at the end of the day.
 
It's not latency, it's differential. The switch needs it.

As lame says. Turn it to 60-65°c and leave it alone. You can always try a stat by a different manufacturer if needs be.
 
A 8-10 degree differential is normal. Increase setting on stat. by a couple of degree and see if that helps. Importantly ensure boiler stat. set higher than cyl. stat.
 
Let me tell you, the ACL HTS3 was a well accurate stat but that yellow rubber band thing that stopped you getting zapped when c2 went live when it switched off was a bit dodgy .
Don't think it would be allowed these days ;)
Apart from that ................no comment
 
What's changed in your lifestyle ? to make cylinder run out of hot water ! if cylinder cant cope with demand fit larger cylinder.
 
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