Disconnected water inlet valves

[Drew]

Hi, I recently had a new kitchen fitted and it appears that the old cold water inlet valves (one pipe with 2 blue T valves connectors for old d/w and w/m) have been left in situ without being capped off.

I’m very worried that they’ll leak, especially as they don’t have a cap on them. Problem is the guy who fitted kitchen turned out to be a cowboy and there’s no chance we can get him or want him back to rectify.

The pipe work is behind an integrated washing machine which will be nion impossible to remove I’m led to believe. I just wanted advice on whether they should be ok as they are with the blue valves in the off position or should we try to remedy if at all possible. Thanks

 

[townfanjon]

Nip to a merchants or screwfix and buy two 3/4 caps with seals , fit them and they will be ok

 

[Drew]

Thanks for your reply but getting the W/m out is going to be very difficult as it’s integrated and has no room for maneovre, just wondered if I was worryingly unnecessarily or not.

 

[Brambles]

No, you are not worrying unnecessarily. Utilities should not be isolated long term against a closed valve unless the downstream outlet is also physically and effectively capped.

Even an occasional drip from an open ended water isolation valve can cause a lot of damage.

Follow Townfanjon’s advice.

 

[Drew]

Hi, thanks for the reply. This is the pipe in question, the hot one was capped off years ago but this is how I think it’s been left behind washing machine. I’m not sure what a downstream outlet is?

 

[snowhead]

The integrated appliance will come out and may need to in the future for repair.
As above valves need sorting, if not you may have to get the Washing machine out to fix any leak.

The worst it could be is the kitchen unit plinth has been put across the W, Machine front in one piece and then floor tiles put down after up against that.
The plinth will need cutting if that's the case.

It may be possible to cut and cap the pipe leading to the valves without removing the Washng Machine.

 

[Drew]

Thanks snowhead, this is a photo of the w/m in situ and the pipes are below where electric sockart is so I think we’ll have to remove w/m to get to it to cap them off. The plinth is siliconed in and has a small gap running below drawer unit. Should I just cut silicone and try to pull plinth off?

 

[centralheatking]

Thanks for your reply but getting the W/m out is going to be very difficult as it’s integrated and has no room for maneovre, just wondered if I was worryingly unnecessarily or not.

Its a dam nusiance but you will have to cap off, just simple caps with the rubber insert, you might get them by hand as they do not to be really hard down the rubber bit will do the rest, or a basin wrench will get there. centralheatking

 

[CHRISX]

Hi, thanks for the reply. This is the pipe in question, the hot one was capped off years ago but this is how I think it’s been left behind washing machine. I’m not sure what a downstream outlet is?

Hello Drew,

What / where is the new Washing machine connected to now - regarding the cold water fill and the waste water - is there a new water supply and waste connection adjacent the machine ?

I am asking this because You might also have a problem with the old Washing machine waste pipe if the new machine is not connected to it / it has not been capped off - regarding the trap drying up and sewer gases / bacteria / germs indicated by bad smells coming into your Kitchen at some point in the near future - depending upon how long it took for the trap seal water to evaporate.

Chris