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Discuss draining system question/ leaky joint in the Plumbing Jobs | The Job-board area at Plumbers Forums

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Hi there

I wondered if anyone could help. We have recently connected central heating system (combi) and all the runs are in copper with cast iron radiators.

We thought we were leak free but have since discovered a drip on an elbow that was on a concealed run. Its dropping the pressure in the boiler to 0 when we come to switch it on.

We have drained the system but the pipe run is horizontal below boiler level and the elbow runs to one of the biggest radiators. The pipe is still full of water so we cannot work on the joint.

My other half suggested disconnecting the rad as the sub floor below the hall is soil-I'm not keen on this as it will be a ton of water from this radiator and we cannot see its all soil-(I think likely timbers down there too.)

If we turn off the TRV valve before disconnecting the rad pipe will this limit how much water comes out of the rad?

Is there any connection we could get on the pipe/ rad quickly to siphon off the water?-should we just try and get a hose on quickly and buckets?

Is there any way of repairing a soldered joint without draining system-anything we can paint on?

Any advice much appreciated :)
 
the easiest way to do this is as you said, turn off the valve on the radiator to limit the amount of water. cut the elbow out and remake the joint with two straight connectors and a new elbow. or cut the pipe further back to empty the pipe of water, re-solder the elbow and use a slip coupling to rejoin the pipe where you cut it.
 
crack any connection thats lower and drain in to suitable container usually drain a rad with the valves turned of then connect hose to valve to empty the pipework if your an amateur you need to get it dry or you will struggle
 
A neat little trick I use in situations where there is likely to be water left in pipe sets is to get a large rubble sack, roll down the top and push it under the pipe I am cutting. This will catch any excess water. Don't get it too full or it won't come out. Oh and why not use compression fittings or push fit onto copper, easier for amateurs
 
Drain the water at lower point to empty pipe content.
And if the leak is a concealed one assist in making a soldering permanent in place.
This isn't the kind of place to have such a "fitting" where not accessible or unsuited
I drain as much as possible and hold up the horizontal run.
Make soldering repair????
 
Last edited:
Thanks everyone-done it and now leak free :)

We drained system / turned off rad valves and used an old blanket to absorb excess that came out-wasn't as much as we thought there would be. New joint soldered and a compression fitting added where we extended pipe to make it more accessible. Thanks for all the help and advice-much appreciated
 
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