Dribbling into the toilet | Boilers | Plumbers Forums
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No, not a medical problem - I mean there's a constant slow dribble of water from the cistern into the toilet bowl. There's a slight giveaway ripple, plus I tested it with one of those dye tablets from the water board and the colour came through quite quickly.

The toilet is a close-coupled Armitage Shanks (something like this) with one of those weird compact push-button dual-flush valves that have a flimsy plastic cup as a float valve instead of a ballcock (see here for example). I'm told it could be as simple as replacing the seal beneath the valve, but that it could also be a false economy as the valve itself might be on the way out. Not sure how old it is - at least 6 years but maybe more (was here when we moved in).

Can anyone advise on how easy (or not) it would be for an untrained DIY-er to replace the valve, and alternatively a ballpark cost for a professional to do it (parts cost looks to be about £30 but no idea about labour)?
 
If it IS an AS, then it may well be that the diaphragm is one of those sh1te rubber washers that shrinks in water ! I don't think anyone ever explained 'fitness for purpose' & 'culpability' to the s0dding accountants... :mad:

You'll need to remove the flush valve and examine the washer. You'll find it crudded up with the normal detritus from our clean, drinkable water supply...

IF it is black rubber, you have what I described above. You will need the cistern details to order new. I'd get a couple just in case.

If it's made of silicone rubber then, unless it's Grohe cos they sometimes bubble, then it will probably be cleanable. Use a nail brush and water only to do so. When you put it back it often needs a little time to settle back down.

HTH ;)
 
No, not a medical problem - I mean there's a constant slow dribble of water from the cistern into the toilet bowl. There's a slight giveaway ripple, plus I tested it with one of those dye tablets from the water board and the colour came through quite quickly.

The toilet is a close-coupled Armitage Shanks (something like this) with one of those weird compact push-button dual-flush valves that have a flimsy plastic cup as a float valve instead of a ballcock (see here for example). I'm told it could be as simple as replacing the seal beneath the valve, but that it could also be a false economy as the valve itself might be on the way out. Not sure how old it is - at least 6 years but maybe more (was here when we moved in).

Can anyone advise on how easy (or not) it would be for an untrained DIY-er to replace the valve, and alternatively a ballpark cost for a professional to do it (parts cost looks to be about £30 but no idea about labour)?
These ones really did not stand the test of time, we made a fortune replacing them in 500+ mccarthy stone flats in nw uk.
Replace it Centralheatking
 
Isolate inlet valve. If flow ceases after an hour and cistern is still filled to line then fault is in inlet valve. If the flow is still ongoing (or the cistern is now emptyish) then clean drop valve seat. If not cured, replace dump valve outlet seal: Graham plumbers' merchants usually stock these.

Make sure there is a little free play from the lid buttons to the mechanism as this is important to allow the dump valve to work.

I'm assuming the original cistern components are fitted. Personally I like the AS drop valves, but the seal generally lasts about 4 years only.

The AS inlet valves work, but diaphragm washer tends to fail in 4 years on the modern ones (which is poor), and I think the spare part is overpriced and poor availability (though Graham also stocks that), so I tend to fit Torbeck Ecofil as my standard replacement.
 

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