Dual supply tank feed airgaps | Air Sourced Heat Pumps | Plumbers Forums

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PJMallinson

Hi all. Have just joined the forum. Have years of DIY plumbing experience though not with any new whizzy systems, mostly trad gravity/copper/solder etc but whole systems . I've just been issued compliancy instructions by local water authority to create an AA airgap on existing std 50gal gravity cold water tank as I have both a mains and a spring water supply. At present it simply has a dual pipe feed to the tank with two conventional ball valves at same level. What's the easiest way to re-do one of the feeds to create the necessary air gap. Many thanks in advance. Peter M
 
Buy a polytank replacement tank to replace your tank with you can buy an additional kit to give u a type aa air gap
Take note the fitting they come with are crap so i usually seal them with butyl sealing lace(as used on sectional tanks) and some stainless steel self tappers.
Total cost approx 120.00 or u could buy a one peice GRP tank with Type AA lid probably 3 to 4 hundred,
PVC polytank will be fine for domestic 50 gallon size.
They also come supplyed with a drop arm to convert the ball valve

poly A30 x 2 is what u need to go ontop of the new tank
check it out POLYTANK.COM
 
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Hi. If it is a galvanised cistern. Disconnect the ball valve from feed and remove valve. Get a bit of gav sheet and drill a hole to take ballvalve, bend it to form a bracket and fix to upper edge of cistern. So as the out let of ball valve is above the flood level of cistern by the required amount of air gap. Plug redundant ball valve hole, or use it for anchor point of bracket. Good Luck
 
Thanks Prs1 for your advice. I've actually gone for simply raising existing 2nd ball valve and using a ball arm extension and splash housing. Only because it saves about £300! Thanks again. Peter M

Thanks Justlead1 for your suggestion. I have indeed followed similar line though it's not an old Galvanised tank but plastic but fortunately an adjacent wall enables the use of a support bracket. It does however involve rigging up an extension to the ball arm since the water level is obviously now out of reach of the standard type. I can't think of any other cheap way round that aspect. Thanks again. Peter M
 
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since u have carried out work on this tank it needs to comply with the current water regs 99,or be brought upto this standard ie it must have a screened overflow, close fitting and secure lid ie no gaps so no foreign bodies can enter tank, a lid vent and insulation.To be fully compliant.
Only mentioning due to u saying it was subject to inspection.
As soon as u do any work on this tank it needs to be brought upto current standards!
 
Many thanks for that Prs1. I am aware of the requirement to enclose the system and have a plan for this. I don't however have a copy of the actual regulations so perhaps you could direct me to a website where I could access them. regards, Peter M
 
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