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Discuss dual system link up..... in the Plumbing Jobs | The Job-board area at Plumbers Forums

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Hi guys, been a while since my last visit, but i would like advice or something on a system in my own home ..

Historically our system was solid fuel, then early last year i ripped it out and installed an oil fired boiler and a 180lt unvented water cylinder. ( im oftec by the way )

I put all new pipework in, mainly 28mm then smaller offs to rads. I actually kept the metal header tanks and copper floats etc, and are still in use.
Its a big old bird i installed 50kw, so not the cheapest to run in our home.
I would really like to re incorporate some system to compliment it, not necessarily to be the main heating producer and switch the boiler off, but to supply some heat to the rads only, not the water side !

our rooms are over 3m high, and very large in size, so the log burner would heat that room, but i thought it could at least put some of that heat round the heating circuit to take the edge off the house (6 bed farmhouse)

Ive seen certain systems that dont have the need for neutralizers or buffer tanks that would connect straight up to the flow / return with the added pump and NRV.

What is opinions on this guys ?
Like i say i dont want mega output, and then expect to sit in my pants as the whole house is tooo hot from this system.
Al try affix a diagram with the layout and where the solid stove would fit into our system.
cheers in advance, for helpfull comments..

coleby heating schematic.png
 
How many boilers do you want,whats wrong with using the oil fired boiler ? you could put in a electric boiler for your central heating system a lot of people are doing away with oil now
 
Hi guys, been a while since my last visit, but i would like advice or something on a system in my own home ..

Historically our system was solid fuel, then early last year i ripped it out and installed an oil fired boiler and a 180lt unvented water cylinder. ( im oftec by the way )

I put all new pipework in, mainly 28mm then smaller offs to rads. I actually kept the metal header tanks and copper floats etc, and are still in use.
Its a big old bird i installed 50kw, so not the cheapest to run in our home.
I would really like to re incorporate some system to compliment it, not necessarily to be the main heating producer and switch the boiler off, but to supply some heat to the rads only, not the water side !

our rooms are over 3m high, and very large in size, so the log burner would heat that room, but i thought it could at least put some of that heat round the heating circuit to take the edge off the house (6 bed farmhouse)

Ive seen certain systems that dont have the need for neutralizers or buffer tanks that would connect straight up to the flow / return with the added pump and NRV.

What is opinions on this guys ?
Like i say i dont want mega output, and then expect to sit in my pants as the whole house is tooo hot from this system.
Al try affix a diagram with the layout and where the solid stove would fit into our system.
cheers in advance, for helpfull comments..

View attachment 25420

That would be a no. One of the reasons you should be aware of if you fitted an unvented.

Ways to do it but not the way in the diagram.

Have a look at heating innovations h2 panel. Good bit of kit.
 
How many boilers do you want,whats wrong with using the oil fired boiler ? you could put in a electric boiler for your central heating system a lot of people are doing away with oil now

Why fit an electric boiler? Absolutely ridiculous. Cheapest form of heating at the moment = oil.
 
Thanks for the bits of info . Oil as mentioned is still the cheapest heating solution ( for now) and I'm personally fitting 2-3 new oil boilers a month!
I have seen the h2 panel but it's all valves and pumps and requires get sinks to mention, good bit of kit but didn't want to go the expensive route. I only drew this sketch up as one stove company sent me a link with the same set-up. The previous system I took out that was solid fuel was also invented. A 300lt buffer tank and 300lt unvented cylinder. Tap water was whistling hot but heating was crap, hence me taking it all out, subsequently when I took old pipework out, it was zig zagged across most rooms with around 30m of pipe before the first rad
 
Why fit an electric boiler? Absolutely ridiculous. Cheapest form of heating at the moment = oil.

because he said he wants to compliment it,he already has oil and a wood burner and I assume gas isn't an option,so he has the option of electric or solar, unless I am misunderstanding what exactly he wants, so please enlighten me please
 
the schematic would work in theory but what if the pump or electricity failed whilst the log burner was producing heat
 
Wouldn't the stove produce a gravity flow of heat if electricity failed? As there is a zone valve which is closed between the stove and water cylinder I presumed it wouldn't affect the cylinder with it been unvented . Unless of course the programmer was on and a demand for water was needed? The drawing the stove company produced had no pump or never, I just put that in as its a large circuit, and I doubt gravity would go the full stretch.... I come across this similar setup with some old open fires with back boilers, gravity feed to the cylinder, and a pump to boost it round the heating circuit?
 
Best way would be to link the heat sources through a 'H2 panel', Google Heating innovations Ltd or H2 and you'll find plenty of info. Give the guy a call, his names Mike, very informative chap
 
There are a number of ways to do it, Dunsley Baker neutralizer, thermal stores, by far the simplest, and probably least expensive safe solution would be the H2 panel (Hopefully you've understood the message by now :) ) and of course you should be BPEC or HETAS certified to install a solid fuel heating system,
 
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I come across this similar setup with some old open fires with back boilers, gravity feed to the cylinder, and a pump to boost it round the heating circuit?

And they probably all have heat sink rads, non-return valves, pipestats etc....
 
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